Reference post: How I’m calculating cost per gram for ingredients

I’ve been trying to include the cost of each ingredient in grams for the products I’ve been making lately, so I thought I should share how I’m figuring that out for future reference. You can see this in action in the recent Sisley Paris Floral Lotion duplication. I go to the supplier where I bought…...

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Esters: Cetyl ricinoleate – simple ester

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl ricinoleate is derived from ricinoleic acid from castor oil, so it’s a palm-free…...

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All kinds of great questions about solid bubble bath bars!

In this post on solid bubble bath bars, Susan wrote, I had a couple questions about bubble bars. I looked at countless recipes, looked up the ingredients of the lush bars, watched videos, and rounded up all the potential ingredients I had on hand. Cream of tartar is stupid expensive but it appears it’s needed…...

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#alltheingredients: Cream of tartar (INCI: potassium bitartrate)

I’m shocked I’ve never written about this ingredient before, so let’s rectify that mistake, eh? Cream of tartar is an an acidic ingredient also known as potassium bitartrate or potassium hydrogen tartrate* derived from wine making, and used a few different ways in cooking and creating bath and body products. We use it as a…...

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Hey $10 subscribers! The November 2019 e-zine is out! Check out Shiny things, volume 3: Ingredients that distracted me!

It’s been a wonderful year of adding new ingredients to my workshop, and in this e-zine, I’m sharing my process and base formulas for trying new ingredients in warm and cold lotions, hair conditioners, moisturizers, and more, and playing with five new ingredients – tamanu oil, cloudberry seed oil, Iselux Ultra mild surfactant blend, a…...

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Esters: Using cetyl palmitate as a substitute for fatty alcohols and acids (part two)

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  The other day, we met cetyl palmitate, a simple waxy, flaky, oil soluble…...

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Esters: Using cetyl palmitate as a substitute for fatty alcohols and acids (part one)

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Yesterday, we met cetyl palmitate, a simple waxy, flaky, oil soluble ester that…...

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Esters: Cetyl palmitate, simple ester

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl Palmitate is a simple ester, a white, waxy flake used as a…...

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A few ideas for gifts you can give this year: Solid bubble bath (sulfate-free)

Bubble bath is such a fun gift, and creating a solid bubble bath using powdered surfactants is such a great way to create something both awesome and packaging-free! It’s easy to whip up a few batches of this formula in different colours and fragrances, and shape them anyway they please. Plus, it’s a great way…...

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Esters: The hydrolysis of esters

In the post on simple esters, I noted that we don’t want to use these in products that have acidic or alkaline pH ranges lower than 5 and more than 10 because they’re unstable and can hydrolyze. What exactly does this mean? Hydrolysis is “any chemical reaction in which a molecule of water ruptures one…...

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