Blast from the past: Silicone replacements…

I’ve read the e-mails and the comments and I know some of you are seeking alternatives to silicones. Fortunately, you can find ingredients that will offer the same kind of conditioning, slip, film forming, and shine enhancing qualities of dimethicone to include in your hair or skin care products. (You really can’t mimic the effects...

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Chemistry of oils: Triglycerides and fatty acids

If you’re new to chemistry, I encourage you to read this post on molecules and this one on covalent bonding. These are modifications of posts I’ve written in the past with more chemistry information and more asides!  TRIGLYCERIDES! This beautiful molecule to the left is a triglyceride (castor oil, to be exact). It is a molecule...

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Question: How do oils in a serum stay combined?

In this post, Nancy asks: Okay, here goes. I feel so dumb asking this question. If you make a facial serum out of oils and extracts with vastly different specific gravity, how do they stay together without shaking, or an emulsifier? I’ve seen plenty of shops on Etsy selling these. I make a product, but I...

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What the heck is a penetration enhancer?

Some people would have you believe that everything can penetrate the upper layers of your skin – the epidermis – and make it into your bloodstream, creating all kinds of problems and “poisoning us from the inside out”. They will argue that nicotine and estrogen patches prove their case that things that go on our...

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Chemistry of our skin: Aquaglyceroporins

Aquaglyceroporins are “membrane proteins that form water channels over cell membranes. They faciliate transport of water and solutes like glycerol or urea.” (This document, p. 78) In other words, aquaporins regulate the water flux in our skin (specifically in our epidermis, or outer layer of our skin). They are embedded in our cell membranes to help...

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