If you’d like to learn a ton of stuff about making lotions and using these emulsifiers, please check out these e-zines and e-books…
Beyond E-wax: Theories, write ups, and base formulas (part one of the series)
Beyond E-wax: Modifications and substitutions (part two of the series)
Green & plant based emulsifiers
CONCEPTS
Back to the basics: Defining our terms for lotions
A slightly more in-depth look at emulsification
Updated – Q&A: How do we determine how much emulsifier to use? (And the 25% rule for Polawax)
Basic lotion making instructions
Shear (mixing with immersion or stick blenders)
Where to start duplicating Lush products?
The soaping effect (when lotions look white on your skin on application)
MAKING SUBSTITUTIONS
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Polawax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? E-wax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Ritamulse SCG
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Incroquat BTMS-50
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Lotionpro 165
Non-ionic emulsifiers
Glyceryl stearate (not SE)
Lotionpro™ 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside)
Natragem EW (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Olivem 800 (INCI: Ceteareth-6 Olivate)
Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl olivate (and) Sorbitan olivate)
Phytomulse emulsifiers – Almond, amaranth, chlorella, and coconut – NEW! September 2020
Simulgreen 18-2 (INCI: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside)
Simulsol 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
Lush’s main emulsifier (stearic acid & triethanolamine)
Cationic or positively charged emulsifiers – can be used for lotions or conditioners
AminoSensyl™ HC (INCI: Brassica alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate) – NEW!
AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) – NEW!
Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol)
Jeequat® NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) – cold emulsifier, natural (aka, ICE Conditioner)
Jeesperse® ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37)
Jeesperse® ICE-T CPCS (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37) – cold emulsifier (aka ICE Hair Restore)
Rheosol CVH(E) (INCI: Polyquaternium 37 and Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and PPG-1 Trideceth 6) – NEW!
Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride (and) cetearyl alcohol)
ANIONIC OR NEGATIVELY CHARGED EMULSIFIERS
Ritamulse SCG (INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate)
Glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying version, ECOCERT)
Glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying version, ECOCERT) – longer post
Jeesperse® CPW-S or ICE Sunflower (INCI: Sunflower wax (and) sodium polyacrylate) – NEW!
Jeesperse® ICE-T-LB-T-NS (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycol Stearate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer) – NEW!
ViscOptima SE (INCI: Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20) – cold emulsifier
Cold process emulsifiers
Aristoflex AVC (INCI Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer)
Emulthix or RM-2051 (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone)
ICE conditioner/Jeequat® NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate)
ICE Hair Restore/Jeesperse® ICE-T CPCS (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37)
Jeesperse® CPW-S or ICE Sunflower (INCI: Sunflower wax (and) sodium polyacrylate) – NEW!
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37)
Jeesperse® ICE-T-LB-T-NS ((INCI: Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycol Stearate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer)
Lotioncrafter Serum SE (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
Sepiplus 400 (INCI: Polyacrylate 13 (and) Polyisobutene (and) Polysorbate 20)
Sucragel AOF (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Glycerine (and) Aqua (and) Sucrose Laurate)
ViscOptima SE (INCI: Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20) – cold emulsifier
SOLUBILIZERS OR INGREDIENTS THAT HELP INCORPORATE SMALL AMOUNTS OF OIL INTO WATER BASED PRODUCTS
Solublilizers – some comparisons
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (CCG)
Making fragrance sprays with CCG
PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides – NEW!
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
My testing methods with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and fragrance or essential oils
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – the results for Black Amber Lavender and Clementine Cupcake
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – Yuzu fragrance oil and peppermint essential oil
Poly Suga Mulse D9 (INCI: Sorbitan oleate (and) decylglucoside crosspolymer) – NEW, ECOCERT
THE HYDROPHILIC-LIPOPHILIC BALANCE SYSTEM (HLB)
Click here first to see LabRat’s amazing PDF on this topic!
HLB system – introduction to the series
Let’s get slightly more complicated
How do we know the correct HLB value for oils and butters?