If you’d like to learn a ton of stuff about making lotions and using these emulsifiers, please check out these e-zines and e-books…
Beyond E-wax: Theories, write ups, and base formulas (part one of the series)
Beyond E-wax: Modifications and substitutions (part two of the series)
Green & plant based emulsifiers
CONCEPTS
Back to the basics: Defining our terms for lotions
A slightly more in-depth look at emulsification
Basic lotion making instructions
Shear (mixing with immersion or stick blenders)
Where to start duplicating Lush products?
The soaping effect (when lotions look white on your skin on application)
MAKING SUBSTITUTIONS
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Polawax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? E-wax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Ritamulse SCG
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Incroquat BTMS-50
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Lotionpro 165
NON-IONIC EMULSIFIERS
Lotionpro™ 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside)
Natragem EW (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Olivem 800 (INCI: Ceteareth-6 Olivate)
Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl olivate (and) Sorbitan olivate)
Simulgreen 18-2 (INCI: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside)
Simulsol 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)
Lush’s main emulsifier (stearic acid & triethanolamine)
CATIONIC OR POSITIVELY CHARGED EMULSIFIERS – these can be used in lotions or in conditioners
ICE conditioner/Jeequat® NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) – cold emulsifier, natural
ICE Hair Restore/Jeesperse® ICE-T CPCS (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37) – cold emulsifier
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37) – cold emulsifier
Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol)
Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)
Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride (and) cetearyl alcohol)
ANIONIC OR NEGATIVELY CHARGED EMULSIFIERS
Ritamulse SCG (INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate)
Glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying version, ECOCERT)
Glyceryl stearate SE (self-emulsifying version, ECOCERT) – longer post
COLD PROCESS EMULSIFIERS
ICE conditioner/Jeequat® NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate)
ICE Hair Restore/Jeesperse® ICE-T CPCS (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37)
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37)
Lotioncrafter Serum SE (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
Sucragel AOF (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Glycerine (and) Aqua (and) Sucrose Laurate)
SOLUBILIZERS OR INGREDIENTS THAT HELP INCORPORATE SMALL AMOUNTS OF OIL INTO WATER BASED PRODUCTS
Solublilizers – some comparisons
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (CCG)
Making fragrance sprays with CCG
PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides – NEW!
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
My testing methods with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and fragrance or essential oils
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – the results for Black Amber Lavender and Clementine Cupcake
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – Yuzu fragrance oil and peppermint essential oil
Poly Suga Mulse D9 (INCI: Sorbitan oleate (and) decylglucoside crosspolymer) – NEW, ECOCERT
THE HYDROPHILIC-LIPOPHILIC BALANCE SYSTEM (HLB)
Click here first to see LabRat’s amazing PDF on this topic!
HLB system – introduction to the series
Let’s get slightly more complicated
How do we know the correct HLB value for oils and butters?