Jeequat® NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) is a natural, cationic or positively charged, cold process emulsifier used to make emulsions of all kinds, including lotions, body butters, facial moisturizers, and hair conditioners of all sorts. You may see it listed as ICE Conditioner at some suppliers.
It’s cationic or positively charged, so not suitable for use with anionic or negatively charged ingredients.
When formulating with this ingredient, you don’t need to heat it up, but I suggest getting the water to 45˚C to 55˚C (113˚F to 131˚F) to help avoid lumps and bumps in the final product. If you don’t, the lumps should go away in a day or two.
Create two phases for the emulsion. Phase A will contain the water (warmed, if you want), emulsifier, and oil, in that order. You can use up to 10% oil soluble ingredients in this formula. Then using a stick blender, immersion blender, or homogenizer – a high shear mixer – mix the ingredients until emulsified and smooth, no more than a few minutes.
Then add phase B directly into the container. It will include all the other ingredients in the formula, including colour and fragrance/essential oil (optional). Mix with a high shear mixer for about a minute or two, and when it looks smooth, you’re done!