Oleic acid (updated)

Oleic acid (C18:1) is another fatty acid that shows up a lot in the oils we use in lotion making. It is found in olive oil at really high rates (78%) and high oleic sunflower oil (74%). It has only the one double bond, so it has a longer shelf life than those oils with...

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Polyphenols (updated in 2025)

Polyphenols are found in oils and other botanical ingredients in five major categories… phenolic acids, the derivatives of hydroxycinnamic acid and hydroxybenzoic acid hydroxycinnamic acid – caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid hydroxybenzoic acid – vanillic acid, syringic acid, gallic acid flavonoids, which include flavones, flavonols, flavanols, flavanone, isoflavones, and anthocyanins (but not Flavour Flav,...

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Phytosterols (updated)

I realized I’m going to be writing a lot about our friends, the phytosterols, in the next few weeks, so I thought I should take a moment and post a little about them… Phytosterols are plant based sterols like cholesterol that give structure to the plant’s cell membrane (the way cholesterol does for our cells)....

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Linoleic acid (updated)

As an introduction to looking at the various oils we can use in making our bath & body products, I thought I’d take a look at the various fatty acids on their own and see what they bring to the mix…and linoleic acid (C18:2 or octadecadienoic acid ) seemed like a good place to start....

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Citric acid

Citric acid (or 2-hydroxy-1, 2, 3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is a chelating, anti-oxidizing, and pH altering ingredient that can bind metal ions, help prevent rancidity, and alter the pH of our lotions and surfactant mixtures. It’s also a key ingredient in bath bombs. There are two types of citric acid we can buy – anhydrous (water free)...

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