Q&A: Does allantoin work as a barrier ingredient in water-only formulas? (Updated September 23, 2023)

I’m editing this post to remove the word “occlusive” referring specifically to allantoin as someone who thinks they’re anonymous – but doesn’t realize we have an activity log on the site 😝 – has written a diatribe to my friend Michele about how I’m wrong, which has been “happening more often lately” and that I...

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Formulating fun: A short guide about what I consider my signature combination of ingredients, aka The Sasquatch Complex™

If you’ve been around this site long enough or have read a few of my e-books, you’ll have noticed my signature combination of ingredients* popping up all over the place, in everything from conditioners to lotions to toners and anything else containing water. It goes a little like this – 3% glycerin, 3% propanediol 1,3,...

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#alltheingredients: Hyalurosomes (INCI: Polydimethylsiloxane/Polymethylsilsesquioxane Copolymer & Phospholipids & Hyaluronic Acid) – active ingredient, Hyaluronic Acid

Quick note before we begin*: Maggie from Formulator Sample Shop just let me know that they have a deal on this ingredient, FSS Hyalurosome (INCI: Polydimethylsiloxane/Polymethylsilsesquioxane Copolymer & Phospholipids & Hyaluronic Acid), Hyaluronic Acid that’s released over time in our products. It’s normally as high as $167 a kilogram, but they’ve reduced it to $67 a...

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Q&A: How interchangeable are humectants?

In this month’s Q&A, Susan asked, I’m wondering whether humectants are fully interchangeable, the same way that hydrolyzed proteins seem to be. Specifically, I’m looking at a Lotioncrafter formulation (Time Defy Facial Serum) which calls for butylene glycol but I don’t have any. I do have vegetable glycerin, honeyquat, sodium lactate, and propanediol 1-3. I’m hoping...

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Q&A: What would be a good humectant blend for a leave on product that’s effective at all humidities? What would be most effective for a body wash?

As you might have noticed from the pinned posts section of the blog, there’s a question and answer post there for $5 and $10 subscribers to ask questions to which I promise replies. This one from this month… In this month’s Q&A, Jai asked, Hi Susan, I have two questions about humectants: 1. What would be...

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