#alltheingredients: Azelaic Acid

In the October Q&A post, Chelsea asked, Hey swift – I am super interested in azelaic acid and some in general information about it. I made sure to to check via the search first and didn’t produce results; though I hope I didnt accidentally miss this ingredient info on the blog. Thank you much for…...

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Q&A: How do companies use niacinamide and glycolic acid in the same product?

In the September Q&A, Charlette asked this epic question: Hello Susan! Can you clear up a little dilemma? I have read that Niacinamide is NOT effective in formulas unless the pH is around 6. I also have read that Glycolic Acid is absolutely useless in formulas if the pH is over 4. Here’s my confusion:…...

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Q&A: What are these new products using “essence” in the name?

In the August Q&A post, Brian asked, What are these new products using “Essence” in the name? Fresh Black Tea Kombacha and Tatcha The Essence, Plumping Skin Softer, both listing saccharomyces as the first ingredient, and both hitting near $100 in price. The dictionary definition of “Essence” makes no sense here but it is a…...

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Q&A: What is saccharomyces? Why is it in products?

In the August Q&A, Brian asked: It’s the saccharomyces ingredient that seems new or unusual in both these products. Maybe a yeast of some kind. Rare? How to preserve? Effective for what? Brian referenced these two products, which will lead into another question about what it means for something to be an “essence”. Fresh, Black Tea Kombucha…...

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Q&A: What’s zinc PCA and how do I formulate with it? (#alltheingredients)

In the July Q&A, Charlette asked, I’ve been looking into developing some skincare for acne/break out prone skin. I’ve been reading about Zinc PCA-but cannot find it ANYWHERE among our usual wonderful suppliers. I ended up requesting samples on Knowde. From what I read-it is not the same as Zinc Oxide? Do you have any suggestions…...

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Q&A: Does resveratrol need to be diluted before using?

In the July Q&A, Heather R asked, I need help in understanding “Resveratrol” – Does it need to be diluted first like Hyaluronic Acid does? I would like to use it in a spray on facial toner. I bought 5g of it from Lotioncrafter. I’ve written a short post on Resveratrol, which I’ve linked in the…...

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Creating an epic level rinse off conditioner: Reviewing the active ingredients

At the risk of sounding arrogant, I cannot stress enough how much I love this new conditioner and leave in conditioner (coming soon)! These are the very best conditioners I’ve made for my hair ever! I’ve taken maybe 20 selfies in my entire life, and 17 of them have been since I made these conditioners…...

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#alltheingredients: Quaternized lemon shine (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein)

I’ve shared this ingredient with you in a few posts –  creating shampoo bars from scratch, conditioners and cationic polymers, Q&A: Creating liquid volumizing shampoo? Part four – actives, and this one, Q&A: Creating conditioners that add volume and retain curls? Using conditioning agents that won’t weigh down hair – cationic polymers, and Q&A: What’s a…...

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Formulas I found online: Conditioners using keratin hydrolysate silox!

After introducing you to this awesome ingredient – keratin hydrolysate silox from Formulator Sample Shop (also found as Keravis from Croda)  – I thought I’d share a few formulas I found on my travels online. Anywhere you see “Keravis”, use the keratin hydrolysate silox. I’ve offered a few ideas for substitutions below each formula as there…...

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#alltheingredients: Keratin hydrolysate silox (hair care active)

On Saturday, I shared my new epic conditioner that uses ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate.) On Sunday, we learned more about this ingredient, then on Monday, we made a cold process, light kukui nut oil conditioner or lotion with Jeequat® NDCS/ICE conditioner. Finally, in yesterday’s…...

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