#alltheingredients: Azelaic Acid

In the October Q&A post, Chelsea asked, Hey swift – I am super interested in azelaic acid and some in general information about it. I made sure to to check via the search first and didn’t produce results; though I hope I didnt accidentally miss this ingredient info on the blog. Thank you much for…...

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Q&A: What are these new products using “essence” in the name?

In the August Q&A post, Brian asked, What are these new products using “Essence” in the name? Fresh Black Tea Kombacha and Tatcha The Essence, Plumping Skin Softer, both listing saccharomyces as the first ingredient, and both hitting near $100 in price. The dictionary definition of “Essence” makes no sense here but it is a…...

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Q&A: Does resveratrol need to be diluted before using?

In the July Q&A, Heather R asked, I need help in understanding “Resveratrol” – Does it need to be diluted first like Hyaluronic Acid does? I would like to use it in a spray on facial toner. I bought 5g of it from Lotioncrafter. I’ve written a short post on Resveratrol, which I’ve linked in the…...

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Q&A: Into which phase would I put n-acetyl glucosamine? Is there a limit to the size of the cool down phase?

In the March Q&A, Olja asked, My question is about NAG (N-acetyl glucosamine). To which phase do you put it. If you put it to the cool down phase, do you dissolve it prior? Can you dissolve it in a glicerite extract (which also contains some water) and than put it in the lotion? Moreover, if using…...

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Ceramides in our skin and our products

Way way back a while, Sarah and a few others asked about using ceramides in one of the Q&A posts. I’m sorry it’s taken so long, but there were so many things I needed to write about before we reached this point, and this potential duplication gave me a perfect opportunity to share this!  If…...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: What does it mean if something “improves radiance” or “brightens skin”? Part two – promoting a more even skin tone

Oops! I realized I haven’t written much on melanin and such, so I had to stop for a moment to do that before we move on to looking at other ingredients we could use in yesterday’s ECOcert moisturizer. In the first part of this series, we looked at what it means for an ingredient to…...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: Improving radiance and brightening skin: Hydrating lotions for more humid climates

On Monday, we took a look at how we can use hydrating and moisturizing ingredients to make skin look smoother and more hydrated, then we met Lipomoist 2036. Let’s take a look at how we can create lovely formulas that will help with dry skin and more. Making skin look smoother and more hydrated isn’t…...

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Cosmeceutical: Lipomoist 2036

As I mentioned in part one of this series looking at how to brighten skin or make skin more luminous, I’ve been playing with a new cosmeceutical from Lotioncrafter called Lipomoist 2036 (INCI: Water, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Pectin, Proline, Serine, Arginine, Glucose, Butylene Glycol, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract,…...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: What does it mean if something “improves radiance” or “brightens skin”? Hydration and moisturization

What does it mean if something “improves radiance” or “brightens skin” or makes skin more “luminous”? Well, sir or madam, you’ve asked quite the awesome question there! Let’s dive down that rabbit hole! Smooth skin reflects more light, wrinkled skin reflects less light because it’s not a smooth surface and can appear dull or rough…....

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Subscribers’ Q&A: Using more than 5% niacinamide? Making a Pepha Tight formula?

In the May Q&A, Csoap asked: 1. I know Niacinamide isn’t recommended over 5-6%, but want about combining in application? I have 2 products I love that have 4% each. I sometimes use them together. I haven’t seen flushing but my skin turnover is amazing! But this combo can cause flushing, correct? If you use too…...

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