Cosmetic chemistry

Cosmetic chemistry: Oxidative stability index or oil stability index (OSI)

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Let’s take a look at this concept before we meet a new emollient, jojoba esters 15! Woo hoo! What is the OSI? OSI – oxidative stability index or oil stability index – is a measurement in hours of the “relative resistance of fat and oil samples to oxidation”, an approved method by the American Oil...

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Chemistry fun: How to read a molecule!

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On this site and in my e-books,  I’ve been sharing diagrams of molecules to show you how their shape or composition affects the viscosity, surface tension, melting point, and other properties. I’ve realized I haven’t shared how to interpret these if you haven’t taken a chemistry class or if it’s been ages, so let’s do...

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Substantiating claims: How much improvement can be expected from actives?

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In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, I have a number of age / liver spots on my hands and face, as I was part of the “let’s use baby oil to get a suntan” generation. I am hoping that you could tell me the best actives to tone these little beauties down. I am specifically...

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Substantiating claims: What does it mean to “brighten skin” or “reduce the appearance” of something? Looking at parameters, measuring, and testing (long post)

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Oh wow, did I go down the rabbit hole for a question posed by Susan on the monthly Q&A quite a few months back. As with many of the awesome questions you ask there, this one took a while because it’s become a series that might end up being an e-book as well. Thank you for...

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Let’s talk about what it means for an ingredient or product to be vegan!

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This came up the other day, and I thought it’d make for an interesting post. What does it mean for an ingredient or product to be vegan? Quick summary if you don’t want to read the whole post: When it comes to making products, most of our ingredients are plant- or mineral-derived (like sand or...

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