#alltheingredients: Azelaic Acid

In the October Q&A post, Chelsea asked, Hey swift – I am super interested in azelaic acid and some in general information about it. I made sure to to check via the search first and didn’t produce results; though I hope I didnt accidentally miss this ingredient info on the blog. Thank you much for…...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ SC (cationic emulsifier, skin care)

AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) is a close cousin to AminoSensyl™ HC, but it has the added Brassica Glycerides to thicken the product. This one is designed for higher oil loads than its cousin – up to 40% oil phase! Wow! They note this emulsifier creates rich textures,…...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ HC (cationic emulsifier)

AminoSensyl™ HC (INCI: Brassica alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate) is a brand new positively charged or cationic emulsifier suitable for use in lotions and conditioners. It’s an amino-acid based conditioner not based on quats that promises to condition, smooth, and strengthen hair. It’s 100% naturally compliant, and doesn’t require neutralization to increase or decrease the…...

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#alltheingredients: Emulsense HC (INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) – naturally compliant conditioner

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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#alltheingredients: Brassicyl Valinate Esylate and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (cationic ester, conditioning)

Brassicyl Valinate Esylate is an “amino acid lipid” derived from the amino acid, valine. It’s cationic or positively charged, so it acts as a conditioning agent that’s substantive to hair and skin, but it isn’t a quaternary compound, like behentrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or polyquaternium 7 to name a few. This ingredient is…...

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#alltheingredients: Poly Suga Mulse D9 (INCI: Sorbitan oleate (and) decylglucoside crosspolymer)

Poly Suga Mulse D9* (INCI: Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer) is a PEG-free, non-ethoxylated solubilizer that can incorporate small amounts of essential or carrier oils into water based products. It’s derived from corn, sugar, and olive oil, and notes that it’s 80% natural. As a result, it’s ECOcert and NPA certified, and has a great star rating of…...

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#alltheingredients: Brassica Glycerides

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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#alltheingredients: Brassica alcohol

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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Creating a lotion bar using rice bran wax!

Yesterday, we spent some time taking a look at rice bran wax. Today, let’s take a look at how we might use it in a lotion bar! I teach this version of a softer lotion bar with soy wax that works really well as a massage bar in my eco skin care class at Voyageur Soap…...

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#alltheingredients: Rice bran wax

A few of my favourite suppliers have started carrying rice bran wax, so I had to add it to my overflowing list of ingredients in the workshop, and thought I’d share what I’ve learned about it with you.  Rice bran wax (INCI:  Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax -USA – or Oryza Sativa Cera – EU) is…...

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