How do I learn about ingredients? Creating a conditioner for textured or curly hair using STEPANQUAT® Helia (part seven)

Welcome back to this series demonstrating how to use new ingredients and create new formulas! To catch-up on this series, check out these posts: Part one: How do I research ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (INCI:  Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)?  Part two: Creating the ingredient reference chart? Part three: Finding starting…...

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#alltheingredients: Glyceryl caprylate/caprate (GCC) – a glyceryl ester

We’re working through the ingredients we need to make this conditioner – Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair. We evaluated the formula in this post – How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part six) – reviewing the formula from Stepan’s multicultural series – and found their were four…...

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Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour…...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other…...

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#alltheingredients: Arachidic fatty acid (eicosenoic acid)

Arachidic fatty acid is a saturated, straight chain fatty acid with 20 carbon atoms in the chain. It has a melting point of 75˚C (167˚F), and a boiling point of 328˚C, so it can handle being heated and held. It’s found in a number of our favourite oils and butters – cupuacu butter, illipe butter,…...

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#alltheingredients: Behenic fatty acid (docosanoic acid)

Behenic acid is a straight chain (C22 or 22 carbon), saturated fatty acid found in some of our oils, like moringa and pracaxi, and in small amounts in peanuts. It has a melting point of 80˚C (176˚F), and a boiling point of 306˚C, so it tolerates the heat at which we create our products pretty…...

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Emollients you will love: Mongongo (Manketti) oil

We find this oil suggested for the conditioners we want to make from this post –  Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair, so let’s take a few minutes to see what it’s all about, eh? This is one of the posts looking at ingredients found in that formula that might…...

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How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part six) – reviewing the formula from Stepan’s multicultural series

Welcome back! Did you have fun navigating all those lovely rabbit holes we fell down on Monday as we learned all about the chemistry of the three ingredients found in STEPANQUAT® Helia (INCI:  Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)? Did you enjoy putting together the ingredient reference chart? Did you take a look…...

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#alltheingredients: Rheosol CVH(E) (cold, cationic emulsifier)

We first met this super quick, easy to use, cationic (positively charged) emulsifier in the 10 minute lotion e-book last summer. It’s one of the ingredients used in Multicultural collection of hair products for textured or curly hair from Stepan, and I’d really like to make this product: THE MULTICULTURAL COLLECTION: REPLENISHING CONDITIONING TREATMENT WITH BAOBAB…...

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How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part five) – formula using Jeesperse® ICE-T CIS-2, evaluation

Welcome back! Did you have fun navigating all those lovely rabbit holes we fell down on Monday as we learned all about the chemistry of the three ingredients found in STEPANQUAT® Helia (INCI:  Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)? Did you enjoy putting together the ingredient reference chart? And are you looking forward…...

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