10 minute lotions: ViscOptima SE (INCI: Sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, polysorbate 20) – cold emulsifier

If you’ve read my e-books, Beyond Emulsifying Wax, part one or 10 minute lotions, you’ve met this super fast, cold process emulsifier before. I bought mine as GelMaker® RHEO from Making Cosmetics, which is their name for it. 125 ml or 4.2 ounces is $13.90 US before taxes and shipping and such. As a note,…...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ SC (cationic emulsifier, skin care)

AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) is a close cousin to AminoSensyl™ HC, but it has the added Brassica Glycerides to thicken the product. This one is designed for higher oil loads than its cousin – up to 40% oil phase! Wow! They note this emulsifier creates rich textures,…...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ HC (cationic emulsifier)

AminoSensyl™ HC (INCI: Brassica alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate) is a brand new positively charged or cationic emulsifier suitable for use in lotions and conditioners. It’s an amino-acid based conditioner not based on quats that promises to condition, smooth, and strengthen hair. It’s 100% naturally compliant, and doesn’t require neutralization to increase or decrease the…...

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#alltheingredients: Emulsense HC (INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) – naturally compliant conditioner

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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Emulsifiers: Glyceryl stearate SE

Glyceryl stearate SE seems like an old school emulsifier – we can use it with the HLB system as it has a value of 5.5 to 5.9 – but it makes lovely light, fluffy, non-greasy lotions with an elegant skin feel. It’s a modified version of glyceryl stearate, so it can be used as the sole…...

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Creating a light, lime-y emulsified scrub for summer! The formula and visual tutorial

Yesterday, we took a look at my new favourite summery lime-scented emulsified scrub. Let’s look at the formula and how to make this! Combine the heated phase into a glass container and place in the double boiler. I heated it until it all melted – around 70˚C – and left it for another 5 minutes to…...

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Adapting formulas to use ECOcert ingredients: Simulgreen 18-2 – using fatty alcohols (updated)

Originally posted to Patreon on Dec 7, 2017 at 4:59am I don’t think it’s any surprise that I really love this emulsifier, Simulgreen 18-2, given I’ve been formulating with it like crazy lately. I started working with it back in June 2015, and it’s become one of my favourites. Let’s see how we can use…...

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Adapting formulas to use ECOcert ingredients: Natragem EW

Today, let’s take a look at adapting a formula using Natragem EW, an ECOcert Polawax substitute. This one’s kinda easy as we use it at the same levels we’d use Polawax. Figure out your oil phase, then use 25% of that. Part one, defining our terms Part two, gelling agents Part three, all-in-one emulsifiers Part four, creating…...

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Adapting formulas to use ECOcert ingredients: Ritamulse SCG

Originally posted to Patreon Dec 4, 2017 at 2:43pm I promised you this post on Sunday, but it went into the ether, and I lost all that work! Argh! But let’s try again! Part one, defining our terms Part two, gelling agents Part three, all-in-one emulsifiers Part four, creating an emulsifier using the HLB system…...

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How can we adapt our formulas to be more natural? Creating an ECOcert emulsifier using the HLB system

Originally posted to Patreon on Dec 4, 2017 at 5:21am Yesterday, we took a look at some of the all-in-one ECOcert emulsifierswe can use in the potential duplication for the Josie Maran Whipped Body Butter, but we could make our own emulsification system using the HLB system as we did in part two of that duplication.In general,…...

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