Emulsifiers: Ritamulse SCG (updated January 2020, including linked formulas)

Ritamulse SCG (INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate) is an all-in-one emulsifier that can be used at 2% to 10% to emulsify up to 25% oils in an oil in the water emulsion, although I’ve found that almost every sample recipe I’ve seen uses 8% or higher. It works best at…...

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Emulsifiers: Olivem 1000 (updated January 2020)

Olivem 1000 (INCI:  Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate) is a non-ionic emulsifier, one without a charge, that creates liquid crystal emulsions. It can handle pH measurements from pH 3 to 12, so you can use it with AHAs, fruit acids, salicylic acid, and other acidic ingredients. It’s an ECOcert ingredient, which means it’s naturally compliant…....

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ SC (cationic emulsifier, skin care)

AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) is a close cousin to AminoSensyl™ HC, but it has the added Brassica Glycerides to thicken the product. This one is designed for higher oil loads than its cousin – up to 40% oil phase! Wow! They note this emulsifier creates rich textures,…...

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#alltheingredients: Emulsense HC (INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) – naturally compliant conditioner

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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Emulsifiers: Glyceryl stearate SE

Glyceryl stearate SE seems like an old school emulsifier – we can use it with the HLB system as it has a value of 5.5 to 5.9 – but it makes lovely light, fluffy, non-greasy lotions with an elegant skin feel. It’s a modified version of glyceryl stearate, so it can be used as the sole…...

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Creating a light, lime-y emulsified scrub for summer! The formula and visual tutorial

Yesterday, we took a look at my new favourite summery lime-scented emulsified scrub. Let’s look at the formula and how to make this! Combine the heated phase into a glass container and place in the double boiler. I heated it until it all melted – around 70˚C – and left it for another 5 minutes to…...

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Creating a cold process, light kukui nut oil conditioner or lotion with Jeequat® NDCS/ICE conditioner

On Saturday, I shared my new epic conditioner that uses ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate.) Yesterday, on Sunday, we learned more about this ingredient. Today, I’d like to share with you a super quick, cold process conditioner or lotion so easy to make, we…...

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Some links about the HLB system

As I’ve been working through some comments on the blog – I am trying my hardest to get to them, but there’s so many and I’m trying so hard to put the finishing touches on a super long series – I’ve noticed a few things I thought I should share, enjoy, or question! I’ve noticed…...

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Adapting our formulas to use ECOcert ingredients: Olivem 1000

Originally posted to Patreon on Dec 9, 2017 at 6:00am Let’s continue our series on how to adapt our formulas to use more ECOcert ingredients by taking a look at how we might use Olivem 1000 in the potential duplication of Josie Maran Whipped Body Butter. Part one, defining our terms Part two, gelling agents…...

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An aside about Simulgreen 18-2 (emulsifier)

Originally posted to Patreon on Dec 11, 2016 at 9:39am If you joined us yesterday, you saw the first potential duplication recipe for this product using sorbitan stearate and polysorbate 60. In that post, I mentioned an emulsifier called Simulgreen 18-2 in the recipe, and I wanted to share a quick aside with you about using it…....

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