Q&A: How can I make this cream formula less soapy?

In this month’s Q&A, Flore asked, Hello Susan, I’ve formulated a simple body cream recipe that includes 8% BTMS-50, 4% Cetyl Alcohol, 27% soft oils, 53% distilled water, 5% glycerin, 1% optiphen. What would be your advice on decreasing the soaping effect without adding silicones? This recipe takes a long time to rub in and feels tacky...

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What’s the deal with the “soaping effect” or those white streaks from emulsions?

Rather than break this into a number of posts over the course of a few days, I decided to leave this as one giant post for easier reference. Honestly, I didn’t expect this to reach over 3,000 words, but here we are!  What causes the “soaping effect” or “an undesired foaming phenomenon observed in skin creams...

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Q&A: Liquid crystal emulsifiers? Is there a list of them? How to create a successful Olivem 1000 emulsion?

In this month’s Q&A, Kristina asked, Happy June Susan! I’m have a quick question (I hope!) at one point I was using liquid crystal emulsifiers, now it’s hard to get a list of them – Olivem 1000, and Montano 68 (which has been sold out) are the only ones I can find when I search...

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Quick post: Emulsion types – oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o)?

Short post because I’ll be referring to this quite a lot in a few upcoming series… The type of emulsion you make isn’t just about how much oil or water we have in a lotion – like, more water = oil-in-water (o/w) or more oil = water-in-oil (w/o) – but about the emulsifier. This emulsifier...

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#alltheingredients: Natural Emulsifier 146 (INCI: Cyclodextrin, sorbitol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate) aka Beauté by Roquette® DS 146

This non-ethoxylated, non-ionic, cold processed, naturally derived, powdered emulsifier, Natural Emulsifier 146 (INCI: Cyclodextrin, sorbitol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate) aka Beauté by Roquette® DS 146, creates oil-in-water products ranging from sprays to lotions to creams with an oil phase up to 60%. This emulsifier offers a light, dry, non-greasy, smooth skin feel* for everything from light lotions...

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