Zoom meeting formulas: Creating a hydrating hyaluronic acid & squalane facial serum with Sepinov EMT 10.

We made these formulas in the Zoom meeting on Sunday, May 16, 2020, on mixers. You can download the PDF with all the information here, or you can read the posts! Thanks for joining me for the second part of the products we made in the Zoom meeting earlier this week. Let’s take a look…...

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Zoom meeting formulas: Hydrating body wash & hand cleanser using Xanthan Gum

We made these formulas in the Zoom meeting on Sunday, May 16, 2020, on mixers. You can download the PDF with all the information here, or you can read the posts! Thanks for joining me on this short tour of my workshop to take a look at how to use a magnetic stirrer and overhead…...

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#alltheingredients: Iota-Carrageenan (natural rheology modifier)

Yesterday, we met Genugel® G-130, kappa-carrageenan, which creates firm, brittle, solid gels. Today, let’s meet iota-carrageenan, an anionic or negatively charged thickener that creates soft, elastic gels. As a note, you’ll notice a lot of duplications from yesterday’s post, but there’s no point in re-writing something just to make it look different.  If you’ve ever…...

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#alltheingredients: Genugel® G-130 – kappa-carrageenan (natural rheology modifier)

As a note, there are a few different kinds of carrageenans we can buy, the most common being iota-carrageenan or kappa-carageenan. I’ll be writing about both. If you’ve ever made jelly soap, you’ve probably used iota-karageenan, which creates soft, wiggly, elastic gels.  Genugel® G-130 carrageenan (kappa) is an anionic or negatively charged water dispersible thickener derived from…...

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Experiments in the workshop: Blooming Jelly Cleanser from LV Lomas, working through the formula

Ina reminded me yesterday at our cosmetic chemistry coffee klatch that I hadn’t shared this formula, so I thought I should remedy this before the year is over!  Back in May, I met with Shannon of IMCD, a distributor of so many of the ingredients we use and adore, and I fell in love with…...

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#alltheingredients: Hydroxypropyl guar (rheology modifier)

I have a really interesting question from this month’s Q&A that I want to answer, but first we need to take a look at hydroxypropyl guar. I have this ingredient as Jaguar® HP-105 from Solvay but you can also find it as Polycos, so some of this might be specific to one version or another. Hydroxypropyl…...

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An aside on rheology modifiers: Wetting, dispersing, and hydrating

As you saw in this post recently – magnetic stirrer with hot plate – we heated our water phase that included hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) on the magnetic stirrer with hot plate as it needs both agitation and heat to fully hydrate this starch. Why did we need to do that? It’s the idea that thickening ingredients…...

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#alltheingredients: Gellan gum (Kelcogel® CG-LA) – rheology modifier, gelling ingredient

A massive thank you to Shannon of IMCD for introducing me to and sending me this ingredient! I didn’t think I could love working with gums, but she made me a believer! 🙂 We’ll be making two products over the few weeks with this – a lovely fluffy Moisture Renewal Body Wash and those gorgeous, Blooming Jelly…...

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Experiments with rheology modifiers: Gelmaker CC aka Cosmedia Gel CC

Another beaker broken during the grand oil thickening experiments! I don’t know what it is about high shear + clay based thickeners, but if this keeps up, I’ll have to order the 100 and 150 ml by the caseload! Oh well, it’s all in the name of figuring out how we can use these ingredients…...

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Q&A: Have you combined different surfactant thickeners in one product?

In this post on bubble bath, Liquid bubble bath: The process and formulas, Allison asked, Susan you mentioned here having many different thickening ingredients, and I’m wondering if you’ve ever combined more than one in a single product? I look at manufacturer’s formulations online, and I’m noticing that some will use something like Glucamate DOE-120…...

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