Tips & techniques: Waiting to package emulsions when they’re cooled – viscosity and contamination

When can you judge the viscosity of your lotion after creating it? Well, that depends… When will an emulsion reach final viscosity?  In general, you can get kind of an idea when you’ve had it at room temperature for a few hours as all the butters, solid oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, solid esters, and...

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Thickeners: Xanthan gum (rheology modifier) – updated October 3, 2022

Xanthan Gum is an anionic (negatively charged) polymer derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, which can be found on cruciferous veggies like cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli (all of my least favourites!). In the manufacturing of this ingredient, they actually use the bacteria in a fermentation process. It’s permitted in food and cosmetic products and the typical usage...

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Cosmetic chemistry terms: Structuring agent (also known as thickeners)

This is a term you’ll be seeing quite a bit on the blog in the future, so let’s take a look at what this means. As a note, I’ve added a shorter version of this post into the glossary so it’ll come up in ever post from now on as a clickable link.  A structuring...

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#alltheingredients: Tribehenin – a saturated triglyceride that works as a structuring agents

Tribehenin (aka glyceryl tribehenate or tridocosanoin) is a triglyceride like those found in our natural oils and butters with three saturated behenic acid (C22) fatty acid chains attached to a glycerin (aka glycerol) backbone. It’s derived from plants that contain those fatty acids, like brassica, rapeseed, and the Ben-oil tree (Moringa oleifera). It’s an oil...

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Creating oily gels, balms, and scrubs: Comparing Sucragel and Sapogel Q

As this has come up a lot over the last few weeks on social media as I’ve shared my two e-books, Creating oily gels with Sucragel and Creating oily gels, balms & scrubs with Sapogel Q, I thought I’d write a post comparing these two oil gelling ingredients, Sucragel and Sapogel Q What’s the difference between...

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