Esters: Stearyl palmitate, simple ester

We took some time away from the ester series over the holidays, but it’s time to get back to learning more about these awesome non-greasy, silky, glidy emollients. Let’s take a look at another simple ester, stearyl palmitate. As a note, you can find all the posts from this series in the emollients section of the blog…....

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Experiments in the workshop: Blooming Jelly Cleanser from LV Lomas, working through the formula

Ina reminded me yesterday at our cosmetic chemistry coffee klatch that I hadn’t shared this formula, so I thought I should remedy this before the year is over!  Back in May, I met with Shannon of IMCD, a distributor of so many of the ingredients we use and adore, and I fell in love with…...

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Esters: Cetyl palmitate, simple ester

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl Palmitate is a simple ester, a white, waxy flake used as a…...

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#alltheingredients: Brassica Glycerides

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some…...

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#alltheingredients: PEG-150 distearate

This PEG-ester or polyethyleneglycol diester of fatty acids is a good thickener for a variety of surfactant blends, including sulfate free products. The white flakes are soluble in hot water, surfactants, and alcohol, and has an HLB 18.9, indicating it could be paired with a low HLB emulsifier to create lotions. good for sulfate free…...

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Experiments in the workshop: Moisture Renewal Body Wash using Kelcogel® CG-LA – working with this formula

First, we met my new favourite gum, gellan gum, then we took a look at the Moisture Renew Body Wash formula from the manufacturer along with some ideas on which preservatives will work for it. Today, let’s make this formula and take a look at how to mix it along with testing and adjusting the…...

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Q&A: Why is sorbitan olivate in my facial cleanser? And stuff about structured liquids!

In the June Q&A, Heather asked, Can you talk about “coconut alcohol”? I know that it is used an emulsifier but cannot find any place to source the ingredient. It is being used in Oseas Ocean Cleansing Mud. When reading the ingredients list it piqued my curiosity and want to know more about it. They are…...

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Thickening surfactants and suspending mica, glitter, jojoba beads, and other exfoliants!

Can you tell I’m obsessed with this new-to-me surfactant, Iselux Ultra Mild, yet? Let’s take a look at suspending micas today! Are you wondering why the shiny micas in your pretty bubble bath fell to the bottom or your jojoba beads floated to the top of your facial cleanser? Thickening your product with Crothix, Ritathix…...

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Good formulas take time: A cleanser thickened with a Siligel, then and now

It’s not hoarding if you’re monitoring your product for stability, observing how it morphs over time, loses viscosity, takes on or loses fragrance, changes colour, or generally behaves when left untouched for a while. This was my first formula using Siligel as a suspending thickener based on a formula with decyl glucoside created by Jane…...

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Emollients you will love: Myristyl myristate, simple ester

In my newest formula for an emulsified sugar scrub, I used myristyl myristate to thicken it and offer a more glidy and less greasy skin feel. Let’s take a look at this ingredient! Myristyl myristate is a simple ester, a waxy one with a melting point of 38-40˚C. It’s slightly polar and non-ionic ester. It…...

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