Demythifying the myths: There isn’t a negative interaction between Sepimax ZEN and cetearyl alcohol

I’ve had some downtime to surf the ‘net and catch up on all kinds of social media posts, and I’ve noticed a few things being said about Rheology modifiers like Sepimax ZEN, Aristoflex AVC, Sepinov EMT 10, and more that are kinda wrong. To help you avoid fish eyes, Jell-o, non- thickening formulas, and general...

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#alltheingredients: Jojoba esters 30 (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Esters)

Jojoba esters 30 is a white, soft, creamy paste derived from jojoba oil that works as an oil-free emollient, occlusive, viscosity builder and thickener in emulsions and anhydrous products, and stiffener in solid products, replacing butters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and solid esters. It has a melting point that ranges from 42˚C to 51˚C (107.6˚F...

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Tips & techniques: Waiting to package emulsions when they’re cooled – viscosity and contamination

When can you judge the viscosity of your lotion after creating it? Well, that depends… When will an emulsion reach final viscosity?  In general, you can get kind of an idea when you’ve had it at room temperature for a few hours as all the butters, solid oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, solid esters, and...

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Thickeners: Xanthan gum (rheology modifier) – updated October 3, 2022

Xanthan Gum is an anionic (negatively charged) polymer derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, which can be found on cruciferous veggies like cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli (all of my least favourites!). In the manufacturing of this ingredient, they actually use the bacteria in a fermentation process. It’s permitted in food and cosmetic products and the typical usage...

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Cosmetic chemistry terms: Structuring agent (also known as thickeners)

This is a term you’ll be seeing quite a bit on the blog in the future, so let’s take a look at what this means. As a note, I’ve added a shorter version of this post into the glossary so it’ll come up in ever post from now on as a clickable link.  A structuring...

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