What are esters? Part two: Types of esters & their sensory characteristics

Thanks for joining me for part two of this series on esters. Yesterday, we looked at the chemistry and nomenclature of esters. Today, let’s take a look at why we might use esters in our products, and what they bring to the party. We use esters for all kinds of reasons – as emulsifiers, as…...

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What are esters? Part one: The chemistry and nomenclature

You might remember our series to figure out what a polar oil might be – part one, hydrocarbons and part two, polar oils – as we struggled to make that darned TKB Thickening clay work. This was supposed to be part three at the time, but we went on holiday and the computer died and…...

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What does it mean if an oil is “winterized”?

“Winterized olive oil is any grade of olive oil that has had the waxes removed so that it doesn’t solidify in the cold weather (or in the refrigerator).” (Reference) This is done a lot for edible products that’ll be stored in the fridge, like a salad dressing, and for oils that may have a lot…...

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Emollients you will love: Cupuacu butter

Cupuacu butter (INCI: Theobroma grandflorum seed butter) is a relative of cocoa butter, with a less greasy skin that leaves a less shiny appearance. Its melting point is more like refined shea butter at 32 ̊C to 36 ̊C (89˚F to 96.8˚F), so melts in contact with skin, which is lovely. It can be used anywhere you might…...

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Oh no, melting babassu oil! (Video)

It’s summer, so get your oils, butters, solid oils, and other fine meltables into a cool, dark place or fridge lest you suffer the curse of melted coconut or babassu oil coating everything in your oils box! Babassu and coconut oils melt at 24°C or 76°F, which is barely above room temperature for some buildings!…...

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Emollients you will love: Tamanu oil

I’ve been playing with tamanu oil (INCI: Calophyllum Tacamahaca Seed Oil) for a while now, so let’s take a look at this interesting oil! Tamanu oil is a thick, rich oil with a distinctive smell and colour. It is reported to be an anti-microbial with anti-oxidant properties, and works well as a skin or hair conditioner…....

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Emollients you will love: Myristyl myristate, simple ester

In my newest formula for an emulsified sugar scrub, I used myristyl myristate to thicken it and offer a more glidy and less greasy skin feel. Let’s take a look at this ingredient! Myristyl myristate is a simple ester, a waxy one with a melting point of 38-40˚C. It’s slightly polar and non-ionic ester. It…...

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Experiments with rheology modifiers: Gelmaker CC aka Cosmedia Gel CC

Another beaker broken during the grand oil thickening experiments! I don’t know what it is about high shear + clay based thickeners, but if this keeps up, I’ll have to order the 100 and 150 ml by the caseload! Oh well, it’s all in the name of figuring out how we can use these ingredients…...

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Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with squalane, another hydrocarbon

Yesterday, we created decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane that had a light, non-greasy feeling with great slip, glide, and spreadability. Today, let’s take a look at making this with another hydrocarbon, squalane. A reader named Stephany asked me this question on Instagram, where you can find me as @swiftcraftymonkey: I was reading your posts on squalane,…...

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Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane with an aside about grape seed oil

I’ve been playing a lot with isododecane, that very light, non-greasy, non-polar hydrocarbon we met the other day, and wanted to share another formula we’re loving around the SwiftCraftyMonkey house during these drier winter months! I can’t believe how itchy I’ve been feeling since the humidity dropped back in December. Yeah, I know, it’s like…...

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