Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour…...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other…...

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#alltheingredients: Arachidic fatty acid (eicosenoic acid)

Arachidic fatty acid is a saturated, straight chain fatty acid with 20 carbon atoms in the chain. It has a melting point of 75˚C (167˚F), and a boiling point of 328˚C, so it can handle being heated and held. It’s found in a number of our favourite oils and butters – cupuacu butter, illipe butter,…...

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#alltheingredients: Behenic fatty acid (docosanoic acid)

Behenic acid is a straight chain (C22 or 22 carbon), saturated fatty acid found in some of our oils, like moringa and pracaxi, and in small amounts in peanuts. It has a melting point of 80˚C (176˚F), and a boiling point of 306˚C, so it tolerates the heat at which we create our products pretty…...

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Emollients you will love: Mongongo (Manketti) oil

We find this oil suggested for the conditioners we want to make from this post –  Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair, so let’s take a few minutes to see what it’s all about, eh? This is one of the posts looking at ingredients found in that formula that might…...

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Simple esters: Compare and contrast!

Wow, it’s taken a while, but we made it to the end of the simple esters series. So far in this series, we’ve taken a look at these solid, simple esters… Myristyl myristate Cetyl palmitate Cetyl rincinoleate Cetyl esters Stearyl palmitate Cetearyl olivate Lauryl Laurate …and I thought we could compare them so you could…...

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What are esters? Part three: Chemistry of the sensory characteristics or why they feel the way they do

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters, and part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics.  There are quite a few factors that contribute to the functionality of the ester, that is to say these factors contribute to the viscosity, skin feel, melting point, liquidity, surface tension, and…...

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What are esters? Part two: Types of esters & their sensory characteristics

Thanks for joining me for part two of this series on esters. Yesterday, we looked at the chemistry and nomenclature of esters. Today, let’s take a look at why we might use esters in our products, and what they bring to the party. We use esters for all kinds of reasons – as emulsifiers, as…...

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What are esters? Part one: The chemistry and nomenclature

You might remember our series to figure out what a polar oil might be – part one, hydrocarbons and part two, polar oils – as we struggled to make that darned TKB Thickening clay work. This was supposed to be part three at the time, but we went on holiday and the computer died and…...

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What does it mean if an oil is “winterized”?

“Winterized olive oil is any grade of olive oil that has had the waxes removed so that it doesn’t solidify in the cold weather (or in the refrigerator).” (Reference) This is done a lot for edible products that’ll be stored in the fridge, like a salad dressing, and for oils that may have a lot…...

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