#alltheingredients: Tribehenin – a saturated triglyceride that works as a structuring agents

Tribehenin (aka glyceryl tribehenate or tridocosanoin) is a triglyceride like those found in our natural oils and butters with three saturated behenic acid (C22) fatty acid chains attached to a glycerin (aka glycerol) backbone. It’s derived from plants that contain those fatty acids, like brassica, rapeseed, and the Ben-oil tree (Moringa oleifera). It’s an oil...

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Q&A: Experimenting with fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty esters to determine their sensory characteristics?

In this month’s Q&A, Susan shared, I recently did a side by side comparison of thickeners to try to see and feel the differences between them. I heated 9 grams of fractionated coconut oil (FCO) with 1 gram each of the following: behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetyl esters, cetearyl alcohol, and stearic acid. I put all...

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Emollients you will love: Buruti oil (INCI: Mauritia Flexuosa (Buriti) Fruit Oil)

Let’s take a closer look at this really interesting oil I found at Lotioncrafter, Buruti oil (INCI: Mauritia Flexuosa (Buriti) Fruit Oil)! Buruti oil is derived from the bright orange fruits of the Mauritia flexuosa palm tree from South America. This oil is sustainably produced, obviously plant-derived, and vegan. It might be cold pressed, refined or...

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Emollients you will love: Amla oil (INCI: Emblica officinalis (Amla) oil

Amla oil (INCI: Emblica officinalis (Amla) oilis the fruit oil of the Indian gooseberry, a deciduous tree fund in tropical and subtropical areas. The fruit itself is a “fleshy pale yellow with six obscure vertical furrows and spherical in shape” (Reference: Fruit oils textbook). If you’re been using or making hair care products for any length...

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Emollients you will love: Cranberry seed oil (updated December 28, 2021)

Cranberry oil – INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil – is an interesting oil. With 3 to 6% palmitic acid (C16), up to 2% stearic acid (C18), 22 to 26% oleic acid (C18:1), 30 to 38% linoleic acid (C18:2), and 20 to 38% linolenic acid (C18:3), you’d expect it to have a short shelf life...

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