#alltheingredients: Octyldodecanol (fatty alcohol, liquid)

Octyldodecanol is a liquid, clear, colourless, odourless oil soluble fatty alcohol that works as an emollient and occlusive in our anhydrous products and emulsions. Whaaaat? Did you say a liquid fatty alcohol? Like one of our solid fatty alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, or behenyl alcohol? How can such a thing be? Is this...

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Demythifying the myths: Stearic acid is not an anionic emulsifier

I can’t stress this enough – stearic acid is a non-ionic fatty acid that thickens anhydrous products and emulsions. It is not an anionic (negatively charged) emulsifier.  Sight, I thought we’d demythified this one years and years ago, but here it is, out in the wild, messing things up again. Out there in the world...

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#alltheingredients: Tribehenin – a saturated triglyceride that works as a structuring agents

Tribehenin (aka glyceryl tribehenate or tridocosanoin) is a triglyceride like those found in our natural oils and butters with three saturated behenic acid (C22) fatty acid chains attached to a glycerin (aka glycerol) backbone. It’s derived from plants that contain those fatty acids, like brassica, rapeseed, and the Ben-oil tree (Moringa oleifera). It’s an oil...

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