Emollients you will love: Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil)

Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil) – might also be called Kahai oil – is a light, quick absorbing, non-greasy oil with a slightly nutty odour that works as a dry oil with a matte appearing finish with some dewiness and good emollience. It’s cold pressed from the seeds of the Caryodendron orinocense tree...

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Emollients you will love: Cloudberry seed oil (INCI: Chamaemorous seed oil)

This emollient profile appeared in its original form in the e-book, Shiny things, volume 3: Things that distracted me, issued in November 2019. This is is the kind of material I share in these e-books – ingredient profiles, emollient profiles, other profiles along with formulas to show you how to use them.  Many are exclusive to those...

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#alltheingredients: Jojoba esters 30 (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Esters)

Jojoba esters 30 is a white, soft, creamy paste derived from jojoba oil that works as an oil-free emollient, occlusive, viscosity builder and thickener in emulsions and anhydrous products, and stiffener in solid products, replacing butters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and solid esters. It has a melting point that ranges from 42˚C to 51˚C (107.6˚F...

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Emollients you will love: Babassu oil (INCI Orbygnia Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil) – updated October 2022

If you’ve spent any time on the blog, you’ll know how much I love love babassu oil! Let’s take a look at this gorgeous solid oil! Yes, babassu oil (INCI Orbygnia Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil) is a semi-solid, white oil that’s solid at room temperature, but melts at 24˚C (76˚F), which which means it will...

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Triglycerides: Why coconut oil & shea butter don’t mix! Part two!

Welcome back to this short, introductory series on the importance of triglycerides, heat, and choosing our ingredients wisely. In yesterday’s post, we looked at fatty acids and triglycerides, the importance of temperature, and why we need to be using a thermometer all the time when we’re formulating instead of guessing by touching or observing the...

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