Esters: Simple esters

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics.  Esters are created when an alcohol and an acid react. In the case of simple esters, this is when a fatty alcohol and a fatty…...

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What are esters? Part three: Chemistry of the sensory characteristics or why they feel the way they do

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters, and part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics.  There are quite a few factors that contribute to the functionality of the ester, that is to say these factors contribute to the viscosity, skin feel, melting point, liquidity, surface tension, and…...

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What are esters? Part two: Types of esters & their sensory characteristics

Thanks for joining me for part two of this series on esters. Yesterday, we looked at the chemistry and nomenclature of esters. Today, let’s take a look at why we might use esters in our products, and what they bring to the party. We use esters for all kinds of reasons – as emulsifiers, as…...

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What are esters? Part one: The chemistry and nomenclature

You might remember our series to figure out what a polar oil might be – part one, hydrocarbons and part two, polar oils – as we struggled to make that darned TKB Thickening clay work. This was supposed to be part three at the time, but we went on holiday and the computer died and…...

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#alltheingredients: Brassicyl Valinate Esylate and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (cationic ester, conditioning)

Brassicyl Valinate Esylate is an “amino acid lipid” derived from the amino acid, valine. It’s cationic or positively charged, so it acts as a conditioning agent that’s substantive to hair and skin, but it isn’t a quaternary compound, like behentrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or polyquaternium 7 to name a few. This ingredient is…...

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Emollients you will love: Myristyl myristate, simple ester

In my newest formula for an emulsified sugar scrub, I used myristyl myristate to thicken it and offer a more glidy and less greasy skin feel. Let’s take a look at this ingredient! Myristyl myristate is a simple ester, a waxy one with a melting point of 38-40˚C. It’s slightly polar and non-ionic ester. It…...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE) is a PPG ester we can use in just about every product we make, which is quite the claim! PPG esters are surfactants with a hydrophilic or water loving head and a lipophilic or fat loving tail, so they can bring together water and oil as a surfactant. They’re…...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Coco caprylate

We met this ingredient a few years ago, but I didn’t go into much detail, which is kind of weird as I often go into too much detail. Let’s take another look at coco caprylate.. Coco caprylate is an ester of “coconut alcohol, caprylic, and capric acid”, in other words, a fatty alcohol derived from coconuts…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

As I mentioned in yesterday’s post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn’t contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today’s favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday’s – water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers – like Cromollient SCE – but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos. One of my favourites is water…...

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