Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour…...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other…...

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#alltheingredients: Arachidic fatty acid (eicosenoic acid)

Arachidic fatty acid is a saturated, straight chain fatty acid with 20 carbon atoms in the chain. It has a melting point of 75˚C (167˚F), and a boiling point of 328˚C, so it can handle being heated and held. It’s found in a number of our favourite oils and butters – cupuacu butter, illipe butter,…...

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#alltheingredients: Behenic fatty acid (docosanoic acid)

Behenic acid is a straight chain (C22 or 22 carbon), saturated fatty acid found in some of our oils, like moringa and pracaxi, and in small amounts in peanuts. It has a melting point of 80˚C (176˚F), and a boiling point of 306˚C, so it tolerates the heat at which we create our products pretty…...

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Emollients you will love: Mongongo (Manketti) oil

We find this oil suggested for the conditioners we want to make from this post –  Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair, so let’s take a few minutes to see what it’s all about, eh? This is one of the posts looking at ingredients found in that formula that might…...

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Oh no, melting babassu oil! (Video)

It’s summer, so get your oils, butters, solid oils, and other fine meltables into a cool, dark place or fridge lest you suffer the curse of melted coconut or babassu oil coating everything in your oils box! Babassu and coconut oils melt at 24°C or 76°F, which is barely above room temperature for some buildings!…...

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Emollients you will love: Tamanu oil

I’ve been playing with tamanu oil (INCI: Calophyllum Tacamahaca Seed Oil) for a while now, so let’s take a look at this interesting oil! Tamanu oil is a thick, rich oil with a distinctive smell and colour. It is reported to be an anti-microbial with anti-oxidant properties, and works well as a skin or hair conditioner…....

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Emollients you will love: Sacha Inchi (Plukentia Volubilis) Seed Oil 

In the September Q&A, Charlette asked: This formulating obsession makes me less sad to see the coming end of gardening (which brings me much happiness!). I used to dread the inevitable next few months–but now don’t mind so much! My question is about a new ingredient offered by Lotioncrafters which sounds intriguing. The oil is called…...

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Formulating tips & techniques: Substituting oils, butters, and esters for other oils, butters, and esters

In this post, Let’s formulate: Chamomile & aloe botanical summer time body butter (formula), Andrea asked: Can I leave isopropyl myristate (IPM) out (don’t have any) and add a different oil? Or just leave it out? The short answer is yes, you can substitute it. The longer answer is that unless I indicate otherwise in…...

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Subscribers’ Q&A: Can we freeze oil soluble extracts or essential oils to prevent rancidity? 

In the June Q&A, LY asked: I saw a post about freezing oils to keep them from going rancid. Can you also freeze oil soluble extracts without them losing their potency? In the same post, Amber asked: What about Essential Oils? The main reason to put anything in a fridge or freezer is to slow down the process…...

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