Q&A: How do we know if an ingredient is water or oil soluble?

In this month’s Q&A, Cass asked, then followed up with another comment. hello, beginner here. I’m sorry if this is glaringly obvious but I am someone who has to triple check myself. How can I know if an ingredient is water or oil soluble? I feel so silly looking at the comments because they’re all so...

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Tips & techniques: Learning INCI names!

What’s the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)? The INCI is the name you’ll see in brackets for an ingredient at our suppliers’ shops, in data sheets or bulletins from manufacturers or distributors, in trade magazines and formulas, and ingredient lists. You’ll see these names on the ingredient lists of commercial products, and if you’re...

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Tips & techniques: A few notes on the importance of process, following instructions, and measuring temperatures!

I’ve written a lengthier post that you can find here – The formula is only the start: The process is everything! – that I’d like to draw your attention to in this post. I can’t stress this enough – if you’re following my formula, you must follow my process and instructions for making it. Failure to...

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Tips & techniques: Quick look at active surfactant matter (ASM)!

What’s active surfactant matter (ASM)? This is the percentage of the surfactant as presented, the actual foamy, bubbly, lathery™ surfactant in a liquid or solid ingredient. Liquid products can range from 10% active to 60% active, but most fall in the 25% to 40% range. The rest of the ingredients will consist of water and...

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When making lotions, should we pour the water into oil or oil into water?

This is a question that’s been asked for longer than I’ve been formulating: When we combine the heated phases when making lotions, do we pour the water into the oil or the oil into the water? How fast should we add one phase to the other? And why does any of this matter? The short...

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