This is the home page for the Formulating Friday lotion making series/course for September to December 2020. It’s associated with the Newbie Tuesday lotion making series/course for the same period of time. We will be making the formula on Newbie Tuesday, then modifying it on Formulating Friday. I will be putting all the Formulating Friday posts here, along with additional reading and links.
You can find the links to the previous series in which we made naturally compliant lotions with Ritamulse SCG in the beginners section of the blog (scroll down a bit).
Click here for the invitation to the Newbie Tuesday beginner lotion making discussion group/text chat on Discord!
For this home page, I’ll be sharing the start of the Newbie Tuesday series/course and the first formula, then I’ll only share the Formulating Friday series to make it less messy. Visit the link to the Newbie Tuesday home page if you want more information.
Table of contents
- Introduction: Polawax, Natragem EW, e-wax NF, or Phytomulse (almond, amaranth, chlorella, or coconut)
- Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Polawax, e-wax NF, Phytomulse, or Natragem EW
- Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Incroquat BTMS-50
- Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165
- Olivem 1000
- Additional ingredients
- Emollients
- Butters!
- Anti-oxidants & rancidity
Introduction: Polawax, Natragem EW, e-wax NF, or Phytomulse (almond, amaranth, chlorella, or coconut)
August 28, 2020: Introduction, the plan, shopping lists, packaging, and equipment
September 8th, 2020: Introduction: The chemistry of lotions and some things about Polawax, e-wax NF, Phytomulse, and Natragem EW
September 9th, 2020: An aside for this week’s Newbie Tuesday post: Calculating the emulsifier
September 10th, 2020: Introduction to the ingredients we’ll be using in this series.
September 11th, 2020: Introduction to the ingredients we’ll be using in the advanced part of the series (part one, rheology modifiers, chelating ingredients, and anti-oxidants)
September 12th, 2020: More ingredients we’ll be using for the advanced formulas for Formulating Fridays, part two – esters, dimethicone, and vitamins!
To learn more about choosing preservatives, look at this post from the previous series.
Additional: Do we pour the water phase into the oil phase or vice versa?
Sunday, September 13th, 2020: Creating hand & body lotions with Polawax – meeting link, password, and downloads
September 15th, 2020: First formula – hand & body lotion
September 22nd, 2020: Second formula – body butter or cream
September 23rd, 2020: Modifying a body butter to become a cream (additional part)
An aside: The formula is only the start: The process is everything!
October 6th, 2020: Third formula – facial moisturizer
Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Polawax, e-wax NF, Phytomulse, or Natragem EW
September 18, 2020: Formulating Friday! Let’s modify a hand & body lotion using Polawax! (Part 3)
October 2nd, 2020: Let’s modify a body butter! (Part 4)
October 9th, 2020: Let’s modify a facial moisturizer (Part 5).
Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Incroquat BTMS-50
November 3, 2020: Introduction to Incroquat BTMS-50
November 10, 2020: Hand & body lotion with BTMS-50 (Newbie Tuesday post)
November 13, 2020: Modifying the hand & body lotion
November 14th, 2020: Choosing preservatives for cationic emulsions, like Incroquat BTMS-50
November 17th, 2020: Body butter with BTMS-50 (Newbie Tuesday post)
November 20th, 2020: Modifying the body butter, part one
November 21st, 2020: Modifying the body butter, part two
November 22nd, 2020: Modifying the body butter, part three
December 1st, 2020: Newbie Tuesday: Creating creams with Incroquat BTMS-50 (consider this the first post of the cream series)
December 4th, 2020: Creating creams with Incroquat BTMS-50 (part one, increasing the oil phase)
December 5th, 2020: Creating creams with Incroquat BTMS-50 (part two, altering the increased oil phase)
December 11th, 2020: Creating facial moisturizers with Incroquat BTMS-50
Formulating Friday series: Making lotions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165
January 12, 2021: Newbie Tuesday series: Creating emulsions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 – part one, let’s meet the emulsifier and learn how to use it!
January 13, 2021: Newbie Tuesday & Formulating Friday: Creating emulsions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 – part two, thickeners, rheology modifiers, and preservatives! (Week one)
January 15, 2021: Formulating Friday: Creating lotions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 – part three, working with rheology modifiers and other advanced ingredients (week one)
January 19, 2021: Newbie Tuesday: Creating emulsions with Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 – Hand & body lotions (week two)
January 22, 2021: Formulating Friday: Hand & body lotions (week two)
January 26, 2021: Newbie Tuesday: Hand & body lotions (week three) – increasing viscosity
January 29, 2021: Formulating Friday: Hand & body lotions (week three) – increasing viscosity
February 16, 2021: Newbie Tuesday: Body butter (week four)
February 19, 2021: Formulating Friday: Body butter (week four)
March 2, 2021: Newbie Tuesday – creating a cream (week five)
March 5, 2021: Formulating Friday – creating a cream (week five)
March 9, 2021: Newbie Tuesday – creating facial moisturizers (week six)
March 12, 2021: Formulating Friday– creating facial moisturizers (week six)
A few modifications of the Formulating Friday facial moisturizer. If you want to add 0.2% Xanthan Gum, Sepimax ZEN, or Sepinov EMT 10 to the heated oil phase as we have in the week six formula, please do that. I didn’t include it in these formulas for some reason…
Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Fision® Hydrate
Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Sepilift® DPHP
Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Ceramide Complex
Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Vitamin C, 3-glyceryl ascorbate
Olivem 1000
March 16, 2021: Introduction, the plan, shopping lists, packaging, and equipment
April 13, 2021: Creating naturally compliant emulsions with Olivem 1000 – part one, let’s meet the emulsifier and learn how to use it!
April 30, 2021: Creating a light, naturally compliant hand & body lotion with Olivem 1000 (week two)
May 7, 2021: Creating a thicker, naturally compliant hand & body lotion with Olivem 1000 (week three)
January 2022: I created a five part series making a facial moisturizer with Olivem 1000 that should have been included in this series. You can find part five – which has all the links to the previous parts of the series – by clicking this link – Creating a protective, naturally compliant facial moisturizer with all kinds of lovely things for the winter months using Olivem 1000 (part five) – creating a more advanced version of the moisturizer
Additional ingredients for the advanced series!
Cetyl Alcohol – thickener
Cetyl esters – thickener, ester
Dimethicone 350 cs – emollient, silicone
Disodium EDTA – chelating ingredient
Isopropyl myristate (IPM) – emollient, ester
Lauryl laurate – thickener, ester
Myristyl myristate – thickener, ester
Propanediol 1,3 – humectant
Sepimax ZEN (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) – synthetic gelling agent, anionic
Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) – synthetic gelling agent, anionic
Sodium phytate – chelating ingredient
Stearic acid – thickener, fatty acid
Tetrasodium EDTA – chelating ingredient
Xanthan Gum – natural gum, anionic
Emollients – find links to all the oils, butters, esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, hydrocarbons and more in this section of the blog!
Apricot kernel oil (medium greasy, light)
Avocado oil (low greasy, heavy)
Baobab oil (low greasy, heavy)
Camellia oil (non-greasy, light)
Carrot tissue oil (low greasy, light, very orange)
Fractionated coconut oil (very light, non-greasy)
Grapeseed oil (non-greasy, light)
Isododecane (non-greasy, super light, volatile)
Macadamia nut oil (non-greasy, light)
Neossance® Hemisqualane (non-greasy, super light)
Pumpkin seed oil (medium greasy, light)
Rice bran oil (medium greasy, light)
Sea buckthorn oil (low greasy, light, very orange)
Squalane and Squalane – more about squalane
Sweet almond oil (medium greasy, light)
Tamanu oil (low greasy, heavier)
Butters!
Kokum butter (longer profile in Emollients you will love e-zine)
Illipe butter – NEW!
Mowrah butter (in other butters post)
Sal butter (longer profile in Emollients you will love e-zine)
Anti-oxidants and rancidity – found in this section on the blog.
A summary of anti-oxidants (links updated)
A review of rancidity and anti-oxidants
What’s the difference between all these types of Vitamin E?
Rancidity: A primer (links updated)
Mechanisms of rancidity: Why things go bad! (links updated)
Rancidity in our products: The shelf life of our oils and anhydrous products
Determining the shelf life of our products
Determining the shelf life of our products – updated for 2020