Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part one, hydrocarbons

This came up yesterday in our post about that interesting thickening clay, so let’s recap, then take a look at hydrocarbons and polar oils! You know how oil and water don’t mix? That’s because water is polar, meaning it has a negative charge at one end and a positive charge on the other, and oils...

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Pro tip: Allantoin goes into the heated water phase – not the cool down phase – of emulsions

On January 28 on this blog’s Facebook page, I shared the links to the post on allantoin from January 17th here on the blog, and an interesting discussion sprung up, which I thought I’d share here and add more of my thoughts and links because all of a sudden, people are using allantoin in the...

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Preservatives and inactivation: Some references, articles, and studies that might interest you!

There was such interest in this post on inactivation of parabens by various ingredients, I wanted to share more with you about preservatives. One of the things on this blog that isn’t so obvious at times is that we need to evaluate each product to see which preservative works best with it, there’s not a...

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Q&A: Is allantoin amphoteric? What’s an isoelectric point? Can we use it in anionic products?

Let’s continue with Mia Makes Things’ questions about using Germaben II in products and her third question about allantoin: The closest thing I’ve found is Sepimax ZEN, a gel former, which is anionic. And even then, as an anionic ingredient it prohibits the use of the cationic (at typical pH) allantoin. Which pretty much defeats my...

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Further adventures in cosmetic chemistry: What’s up coming next! 

As I was writing up another variation of the Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion about incorporating rheology modifiers into our lotions – things like xanthan gum or gelling agents – I realized I needed to stop so I can finish the series I was sharing about some of the cosmetic chemistry terms I was...

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