Chemistry

Cosmetic chemistry: Oxidative stability index or oil stability index (OSI)

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Let’s take a look at this concept before we meet a new emollient, jojoba esters 15! Woo hoo! What is the OSI? OSI – oxidative stability index or oil stability index – is a measurement in hours of the “relative resistance of fat and oil samples to oxidation”, an approved method by the American Oil...

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Let’s analyze an absolutely atrocious article on glycerin to learn more awesome chemistry, then talk a little about reputable sources and formulating faves! 

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This article has been making the rounds recently and I wanted to analyze it because it is so absolutely magnificently wrong in so many ways, I thought it could be an interesting exercise in analyzing an article and having loads of chemistry fun while doing it! Article: HOW DOES GLYCERINE REACT WITH WATER? Related posts...

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Chemistry: The chemistry of humectants – water binding, hydrogen bonding, polarity, osmosis, and so much more!

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Before we meet a new humectant, AQUAXYL™, let’s take a look at how humectants work! Before we start… Take a look at my humungous humectants section of this site, found under the “ingredients” tab in the menu bar. What does it mean that humectants have “water binding” ability?  Humectants are hygroscopic, meaning they draw water...

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The big post on hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids! (Updated March 20, 2024)

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Welcome to what I think of as the big post on hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids, the post in which I try to address all the things you might want to know about these ingredients! We use a lot of hydrolyzed proteins around here. and I figured it was time to put together all the...

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Demythifying the myths: Stearic acid is not an anionic emulsifier

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I can’t stress this enough – stearic acid is a non-ionic fatty acid that thickens anhydrous products and emulsions. It is not an anionic (negatively charged) emulsifier.  Sight, I thought we’d demythified this one years and years ago, but here it is, out in the wild, messing things up again. Out there in the world...

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