Susan Barclay-Nichols

Preservatives: Germaben II (updated with reference chart, 2024)

by

Germaben II is a liquid broad spectrum preservative that should be used at 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase of your watery creations (at 60˚C/140˚F). The INCI is Propylene Glycol (56%), Diazolidinyl Urea (30%), Methylparaben (11%), and Propylparaben (3%), which means it is a formaldehyde releaser that contains parabens. Read more about the...

This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only.
Subscribe
Already a member? Log in here

Chemistry of your hair: The hair strand – the cuticle (updated 2023)

by

The cuticle is the part of the hair that probably concerns us the most on a day to day basis. When our hair emerges from our scalp, it has about 6 to 10 layers of cuticle about 50 micrometres on a side and about 0.5 micrometres thick. The cuticle is attached to the cortex and...

This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only.
Subscribe
Already a member? Log in here

When lotions go wrong! (Updated 2023)

by

Original post shared 2009. Slowly updating it for 2023 with new information and diagrams. This is definitely a work in progress as there’s so much more to share!  At one time or another, we’ve all experienced epic lotion failure and asked ourselves what we did wrong. We call it separation, but do you know why...

This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only.
Subscribe
Already a member? Log in here

Emollients you will love: Babassu oil (INCI Orbygnia Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil) – updated October 2022

by

If you’ve spent any time on the blog, you’ll know how much I love love babassu oil! Let’s take a look at this gorgeous solid oil! Yes, babassu oil (INCI Orbygnia Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil) is a semi-solid, white oil that’s solid at room temperature, but melts at 24˚C (76˚F), which which means it will...

This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only.
Subscribe
Already a member? Log in here

Emollients you will love: Cranberry seed oil (updated December 28, 2021)

by

Cranberry oil – INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil – is an interesting oil. With 3 to 6% palmitic acid (C16), up to 2% stearic acid (C18), 22 to 26% oleic acid (C18:1), 30 to 38% linoleic acid (C18:2), and 20 to 38% linolenic acid (C18:3), you’d expect it to have a short shelf life...

This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only.
Subscribe
Already a member? Log in here