Member exclusive Q&A: Why did this lotion fail? Part two – fragrance or essential oils and mixing

Yesterday, we took a look at how changes in oils and preservatives might impact a lotion. What else could be an issue here? Fragrance and essential oils aren’t inert ingredients: We know vanilla can make things brown, but it can also thin out a product thanks to the vanillin. This is why we may have…...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Why did this lotion fail? Part one – oils & preservatives

In the November 2017 Q&A on Patreon, Marta wrote, I made your Silken Vanilla Latte Body Butter (Simusol 165) a month ago without any substitutions and followed your basic lotion-making instructions.  All of my lotions emulsified with BTMS-50 have been stable (as of three months – when I began all this fun).  The body butter…...

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How to make a successful lotion!

Don’t be scared of lotion making! Yes, failure is a possibility, but if you start with a good recipe, use enough of an appropriate emulsifier, and follow good manufacturing processes, it’s almost a guarantee you’ll create an awesome lotion that won’t separate. Remember that a good lotion requires three things to emulsify – heat, mixing,…...

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Why did my lotion fail? Water in oil recipes

As I mentioned at the start of this series, the lotions we make are oil-in-water recipes, meaning that the oil is floating in globules inside the water phase. We can also make water-in-oil recipes, meaning that the water is floating in globules inside the oil phase. For these kinds of lotions, we require different emulsifiers…....

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Why did my lotion fail? Optiphen

Optiphen – INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol – is, unfortunately, a bit of a pain in the bum when it comes to lotion making. Yep, it’s another reason your lotion could fail. As a note, I’m hearing that Optiphen Plus (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid) and Optiphen ND (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid) are curdling…...

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Why did my lotion fail? Heating and holding

I see recipes all over the web for lotions that forget something very very important: Heating and holding. This process is not optional: It’s essential. And it’s the other major reason lotions fail. The summary of heating and holding is this…We heat and hold our separate heated water phase and heated oil phase for 20…...

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Why did my lotion fail? Emulsifiers continued…

One of the main reasons lotions will fail is due to improper use of emulsifiers. As I mentioned yesterday, you want to make sure you are using a suitable, all-in-one emulsifier that fits the requirements of your lotion. For instance, if you wanted to make a body lotion with a 30% oil phase, and you…...

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Why did my lotion fail? Emulsifiers

When you are making a lotion, it is essential that you choose a good emulsifier that will work with the recipe you want and use it in quantities that will guarantee a great emulsification. In general, the lotion fails I see that relate to emulsifiers are all about not using enough or using the wrong…...

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Why did my lotion fail?

The most common question I’m asked is “why did my lotion fail?” I thought we’d take a few days to look at the various ways a lotion could fail and how to fix it. What is a lotion? (From Back to to the very basics: Lotion making!) A lotion is an emulsified product. It can…...

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