Question from Patreon: Is there a limit to how much carbomer can be used in a lotion?

In the November Q&A on Patreon, Sawyer asked: Are there limits to how much carbomer can be used in a oil in water face cream? It seems to be a common ingredient in face lotions, and I love the idea of a cushiony lotion, but when I try to emulsify my gelled water phase with...

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Question from Patreon: How to use alcohol in a lotion? (part one)

On my Patreon feed page, Albert asked: If I wanted to make an after shave balm which includes some alcohol in it, my questions are: 1. In which of the 3 phases (water, oil, cool down) should I add it?2. In terms or ratios, does the alcohol count as part of the water or the oil...

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Question: How do you decide what to make?

In this post, Sue asks: HOW do you decide what to make?! I have such trouble/fun deciding on colours fragrance additives that half the session could disapppear. How do your readers balance creative and efficiency? What a great question! I think the answer is that I don’t do it well. Sometimes I get into the workshop...

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Question: What’s the deal with coco-caprylate caprate?

In this post, Aesthete asks: Based on your experience with Coco-Caprylate Caprate, how is it compared to C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate and dimethicone? Occlusive? Spreading? After-feel? Is it comedogenic? Great question, Aesthete! I decided to do a little test by comparing coco-caprylate caprate against fractionated coconut oil (INCI caprylic/capric triglycerides), C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and cetearyl...

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Question: What’s my favourite facial cleanser recipe?

In this post, Lise asked: Thanks for this series on cleansers which has me all curious about your own preferred face cleanser. I ask because I have personally never had any real success using surfactant based face cleansers. (not sure if it’s sensitivity or just a dislike of the feeling of soap on my face). I...

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