Question: Why would you leave out preservatives for sensitive skin? What do I mean by “water”?

Sarah asks in this post, Lotions: Making a cream: I made an unscented cream yesterday for my friend with very sensitive skin. I left the cream in the bowl over night with a stainless steel spoon in it. Today I noticed on one side of the spoon the cream has been discoloured (purple in colour). From...

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What do you want to know? Is water important or just a filler?

In the What do you want to know? post, Nicole asks: When I first started making anhydrous products, my opinion was that they were the best possible thing for my dry chapped winter hands and dry feet, and that lotions would be better for me for summer. My logic was that if some oil is good...

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Formulating for dry skin: Impaired skin barrier ingredients

As the goal of this blog is to set you on fire rather than handing you matches, I thought we’d take some time to look at the ingredients that might benefit dry to really dry skin.  What do we know about dry to really dry skin? We know that really dry skin probably has an...

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Blast from the past: Photoaging

PHOTOAGED SKIN (original post found here!) How do we define aging skin? It is skin that has… dermal and epidermal atrophy (sagging, wrinkling, coarseness) reduction in amount of collagen hyperkeratosis (thickening of the stratum corneum) reduced number of melanocytes, Langerhans cells, and fibroblasts shortening of the telomeres on our chromosomes reduction in sebum production What...

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Formulating facial moisturizers – silicone based

A lot of the commercial moisturizers you see are pretty silicone heavy, and we know silicones are a great way to offer barrier protection (dimethicone) and behave as surface smoothing agents for aging skin. I can guarantee if my mom likes a moisturizer, it’s likely to be quite silicone heavy. They offer quite a lovely...

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