skin

Members’ exclusive: Liposomes – introduction to liposomes and other concepts.

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In the January Q&A, Derek asked: I am eagerly waiting for the cosmeceuticals e-book. A few days ago while browsing different ingredients for cosmetics, I saw ceramide liposomes and retinol liposomes. It says that they absorb more in the skin if liposomes are used. However, I can’t find any resource on the use and formulation...

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The chemistry of our skin (revised for 2018)

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I’ve updated this post with interesting things I’ve learned in the past two years. The original post can be found here.  Your skin is composed of three layers – the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis or subcutis. Our main focus will be the epidermis or the outer layer of our skin. I find it interesting...

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Can free fatty acids penetrate our skin?

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We’ve established that studies have shown that some oils can penetrate the upper layers of our stratum corneum and that this can be a good thing because it means those oils can help improve the barrier lipids we find in the stratum corneum. So let’s take a moment to see if fatty acids we find in...

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Tuesday Wonderings: Substitutions for comedogenic ingredients? And share your knowledge about Vitamin C esters!

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SUBSTITUTION FOR COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENTS?In this post on oil free moisturizers, Elysia asks: Cetyl Alcohol is moderately comedogenic and the key ingredient in Germall – Propylene Glycol – is extremely comedogenic. Do you have suggestions for a acne-safe alternatives to these ingredients?I have very sensitive, acne-prone skin so I have to be really careful with what I...

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Is there a reason to use expensive oils in our products?

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I think we’ve established over the last week that some oils can penetrate our skin to offer an improvement to skin’s barrier lipids, that polyphenols can penetrate our skin to behave as anti-oxidants, and that phytosterols probably don’t penetrate our skin, but it’s okay because they help our skin by increasing its barrier properties. So...

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