Using powdered surfactants, like SCI, SCS, or SLSa in liquid products and why they fail

I’m seeing a lot of people trying to use powdered surfactants in liquid products – like shower gels, body washes, bubble baths – and although I hate to be the bearer of bad news, this isn’t a stable or easy way to use them. These will start to solidify, leaving you with a bottle of…...

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A tale of two body washes…

A tale of two body washes. Same formula, different fragrance oils. On the left, pistachio cream: On the right, sweet Meyer lemon. This isn’t a testament to the quality of the ingredients or fragrance/essential oils – this can happen with any mix you create. Working with surfactants isn’t as easy as just changing the fragrance…...

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Q&A: Is there a way to make sodium coco sulphate (SCS) not so drying?

In the January Q&A, AA asked, Hi Susan!! Is there any way to make SCS not so drying?? Not just for hair but also skin. I’ve checked and adjusted the pH and also combined surfactants to no avail.. I would just throw in the towel, but I bought a bunch on sale a while back…...

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#alltheingredients: Babassuamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric surfactant)

We first met this ingredient when I made my honey, apple & kale foaming kitchen hand cleanser with d-Limonene, but I didn’t go into great detail about it. Let’s take a closer look at babassuamidopropyl betaine (BaB) Babassuamidopropyl betaine (BaB) is an amphoteric foamy, bubbly, lathery™ surfactant like Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Lauramidopropyl Betaine derived from…...

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#alltheingredients: Lauramidopropyl Betaine (amphoteric surfactant)

I’ve been playing with lauramidopropyl betaine for almost a year now, and it definitely has a permanent place my workshop shelves as a very mild, primary or secondary surfactant I can use in pretty much any foamy, bubbly, lathery™ product I make, and you know how much I love these kinds of things! Let’s take…...

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Foaming cleanser formula: A festive salad de fruits foaming facial cleanser with fruit enzyme complex PF

Sorry for taking so long to share this salad de fruits* foaming facial cleanser, the final part of the apple a day foaming cleanser formula series, but I wanted to get some ideas from Raymond about how he enjoyed it. You’ll see his comments at the end of this post. *I took 7 years of…...

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Experiments in the workshop: Blooming Jelly Cleanser from LV Lomas, working through the formula

Ina reminded me yesterday at our cosmetic chemistry coffee klatch that I hadn’t shared this formula, so I thought I should remedy this before the year is over!  Back in May, I met with Shannon of IMCD, a distributor of so many of the ingredients we use and adore, and I fell in love with…...

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Foaming facial cleanser formula: An apple a day… (part two)

I’ve been having great fun formulating with foaming apple (INCI: Sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) to make this extra apple-y foaming facial cleanser. Yesterday, we chose our surfactants and other water phase ingredients. Today, let’s choose the preservative and create the final formula! Which preservatives could we use here? We need something that works with pH…...

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Foaming facial cleanser formula: An apple a day… (part one)

I mentioned much earlier this year that I loved the apple fruit essence and foaming apple surfactant from Lotioncrafter for creating a super apple-y facial cleanser, but I didn’t share it! (Thanks for the reminder, Kelly!) Let’s take a look at creating this foamer bottle facial cleanser, lash extension cleanser, and makeup remover using these…...

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#alltheingredients: Foaming apple surfactant (sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) – surfactant

Foaming apple surfactant (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids) is a foamy, bubbly, lathery surfactant derived from – wait for it… – apples! It’s a very mild surfactant with a neutral pH, great for all skin types, but especially sensitive or dry types. Because it has a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, it works well…...

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