“Hope in a Jar” by philosophy

Heidi suggested we take a look at the Hope in a Jar cream by philosophy in light of what we learned about the dollar store lotions the other day. This cream can cost between $38 and $105 for 8 ounces, so what makes it so expensive? Let’s take a look at what Sephora says about…...

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Learning to formulate: The oil phase

The second of our three phases is the oil phase, so let’s take a look at this phase and how to tweak it! The oil phase consists of oil soluble ingredients that can be safely heated and held at 70˚C for 20 minutes. This is where you’ll find our emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, and anything that is…...

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The HLB system or creating your own emulsifier

I plan to go into this in more detail in the near future, but for those of you who are interested in learning more about the HLB system (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance system), here are a few links to posts I’ve written on this topic… What is the HLB system?A demonstration of the HLB system with a…...

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Learning to formulate: The water phase

As we know, there are generally three phases to our lotion – the heated water phase, the heated oil phase, and the cool down phase. Let’s take a closer look at the water phase. The heated water phase consists of water soluble ingredients that can safely be heated and held at 70˚C for 20 minutes…....

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Question: Cheaper lotions – comparing dollar store lotions.

Will and Patrick did the most important thing you can do in learning this thing we call cosmetic chemistry – they stayed curious – and both went out to the dollar store to buy lotions. Let’s take a look at what each of them found! (And be warned, this is a long post!) Will: I made…...

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Learning to formulate: What kind of lotion do you want to make?

The first thing I ask myself when I’m formulating a product is what exactly do I want to make? What type of lotion, cream, or butter do I want right now, for what body part, and for what reason? In short, what’s my goal for this product? Asking yourself this question is the first step…...

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Question: What is the cheapest lotion you could make?

In this post, Patrick asks: I’ve made a hand lotion that our household really likes with Jojoba, FCO, RBO, Soy, Avocado, Shea Butter & Mango Butter. I toss in some fancy additives including panthenol and everything totaled comes to about $5USD for 500g. Not horrible, but a bit much. Anyway, here’s my question: What’s the absolute cheapest…...

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Learning to formulate series…

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about what posts to write next, and I think I’m going to do a series on learning to formulate our products from scratch. Although these posts will mostly relate to lotion making, you can take what I’m posting here and use it for other products. If you are…...

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Some thoughts about greasiness in lotions…

I know most people, if asked, will say they prefer a drier feeling lotion, but a lot of those perceptions are based upon commercial products that contain mostly mineral oil. Most of our vegetable oils feel less greasy than mineral oil, and all of our esters definitely feel that way. So here are a few…...

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Let’s take another look at mineral oil!

As I mentioned the other day, the thickening posts and Iron Chemist will be delayed a few days until the weather warms up enough for me to enter my workshop! I’m willing to suffer for my beloved chemistry, but not so much that the headaches return and keep me in bed for days!  I thought…...

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