#alltheingredients: Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (surfactant)

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Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is an amphoteric surfactant related to cocamidopropyl betaine, known as a sulfobetaine. It’s derived from coconut oil, and is biodegradable. It’s water soluble through a large pH range, reduces irritation of other surfactants, and may thicken bubbly and lathery things, like bubble baths or body washes. Because it’s cationic – thanks to a...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium cocoyl glycinate (surfactant)

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As you probably know, I’m a huge surfactant junkie – they’re like Pokemon, I have to catch them all! – so I thought I’d introduce you to another surfactant I adore, sodium cocoyl glycinate. I used this one a lot in the e-zine, Surfactants: Making foaming facial cleansers, as it’s lovely and mild for all...

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Chemistry: Formulating with pyrrolidine carboxylic acid (PCA) – zinc PCA

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We find this compound, pyrrolidine carboxylic acid (PCA), with sodium or zinc as a salt we can use in our products, and as a component in the natural moisturizing factor of our skin. It’s a type of salt, which means it’s an electrolyte, so it can mess with the viscosity of our gels, emulsions, and...

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Q&A: What’s zinc PCA and how do I formulate with it? (#alltheingredients)

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In the July Q&A, Charlette asked, I’ve been looking into developing some skincare for acne/break out prone skin. I’ve been reading about Zinc PCA-but cannot find it ANYWHERE among our usual wonderful suppliers. I ended up requesting samples on Knowde. From what I read-it is not the same as Zinc Oxide? Do you have any suggestions...

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Chemistry: What’s a salt?

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What exactly is a salt? “A salt is a chemical compound consisting of an assembly of cations and anions. Salts are composed of related numbers of cations (positively charged ions) and anions (negative ions) so that the product is electrically neutral (without a net charge).” (Reference) If you’ve taken my introduction to chemistry course – free...

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