Another helpful tip from SwiftCraftyMonkey: Don’t wash your packaging before using it!

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This is one of those things that seems logical – when you’re about to use a jar or bottle or whathaveyou to package your products, give them a good wash before using – that isn’t. You’re adding more potential for contamination if you’re putting these in a dishwasher or washing by hand. You don’t need...

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Q&A: Can we include oil soluble actives in an anhydrous facial serum? And a profile of D’Orientine

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In the monthly Q&A, Klymer asked, Hello Susan, hope all is well up North! When we buy actives do they always need to be use in an emulsion? I have some oil soluble actives (D’Orientine) that I want to include in oil serums alone. As long as I follow the recommended usage, is this ok...

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Please please please please don’t make your own sunscreen!

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I’ve read there’s a TikTok video going around suggesting you make your own sunscreen with coconut oil, some butters, beeswax, and zinc oxide. I can’t stress this enough – DON’T! This is an abundantly bad idea and that will result in suffering from sunburns today and skin cancer in the future. Please please please please … Read more

Emollients you will love: Jojoba esters 15 (liquid ester)

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You can find jojoba esters in all viscosities with different melting points. We met jojoba esters 30 last year, a solid-at-room-temperature ingredient with a melting range of 42˚C to 51˚C (107.6˚F to 124˚F). Today, let’s meet jojoba esters 15 (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Esters), a clear, liquid, odourless, oil soluble liquid emollient you can use...

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Cosmetic chemistry: Oxidative stability index or oil stability index (OSI)

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Three colourful bottles of oil in plastic bottles sit on a countertop with more bottles in the background

Let’s take a look at this concept before we meet a new emollient, jojoba esters 15! Woo hoo! What is the OSI? OSI – oxidative stability index or oil stability index – is a measurement in hours of the “relative resistance of fat and oil samples to oxidation”, an approved method by the American Oil...

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