Kukui nut: Anhydrous recipes

Kukui nut oil is kinda pricey – 30 ml was the same price as 1 litre of soy bean oil – so using at really high levels can be a very expensive proposition. I’ve been trying it at 20% in these products, which I think is a really nice level of usage. Add to the...

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Experimenting in the workshop: Avocado butter

Randi from Creations by Eden sent me out some green avocado butter, which is “…made from solid fraction of raw-green avocado oil, then fortified with sal butter-stearic fraction and virgin oil de coco-crème® solid fraction.” It’s light green in colour and has a very earthy smell to it. It’s quite hard and would need to...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – complicated with esters version

I know the cetearyl alcohol will keep my oils whippy, light, and not separating, so I think I’ll try a version with esters to make it feel less occlusive and less thick. I’m using my favourite ester, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, to make the product feel very light and non-greasy, and the IPM (or IPP) to increase the...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – cetearyl alcohol

So let’s try experiment number three with cetearyl alcohol. For this experiment I used 10% cetearyl alcohol and 90% shea oil from Soapcraft (the less creamy looking one). I weighed both ingredients in a Pyrex jug and heated it until the ingredients melted. I popped the container into the freezer for about 30 minutes. When...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – stearic acid

For the second experiment, I’m using 10% stearic acid and 90% rice bran oil (I’m running out of shea oil and it’s not cheap stuff!), hence the slightly yellowy cast of the picture to the left. Stearic acid is a great thickener, although it will make my creation feel more draggy than cetyl alcohol. And...

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