Chemistry

#alltheingredients: TKB Thickening clay (INCI: Quaternium-90 Sepiolite (and) Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite) – part two

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Welcome back from the aside on polar oils and isododecane! Let’s take a look at working with this ingredient! To recap the series so far… Potential duplication of Tarte Frxxxtion Exfoliating Stick (part one) Practice your process: Choose the right preservative for the job #alltheingredients: Thickening clay (part one) Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils?...

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Creating cleansing conditioners: A rant about not combining anionic and cationic ingredients, plus loads of links to formulas

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Warning: Rant ahead! (I’m ranting a lot this week, eh?) In my class on Saturday, one of the participants  shared with me before we started that she didn’t think she was cut out for formulating. She tried a recipe from a DIY blog for a conditioning shampoo that combined 14% SCI and 5% foaming silk with...

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#alltheingredients Isododecane

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Isododecane is a hydrocarbon alkane with no double bonds. It’s a non-polar, oil soluble molecule that only contains carbon and hydrogen atoms. We can use it as an oily ingredient anywhere we might use natural oils or butters (vegetable, seed, and animal oils), as well as with esters and silicones. It’s considered an isoparaffin. More...

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Chemistry: How to read a molecule

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I can’t remember where I shared this recently, so if it was on the blog, I apologize for repeating myself, but I thought it was an important subject.   This is a cetyl alcohol molecule. Each of these peaks or valleys represents a carbon molecule. To each carbon molecule, if it isn’t specified, it’s assumed...

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Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part two, polar oils

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We first met this idea when we encountered that interesting thickening clay on Sunday, February 24th, then we took a look at hydrocarbons on Monday, February 25th. Today, let’s take a look at polar oils! So what’s the deal with polar oils? “Polar oils contain heteroatoms that differ in electron­egativity. This results in a dipole moment....

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