Fatty acids! (updated)

A triglyceride is made up of a glycerol backbone and three fatty acids. So let’s take a look at fatty acids! If you’re a lotion maker, you’re familiar with stearic acid as a thickener. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid, which means it is a long chain (C18) fatty acid without any double bonds,...

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Triglycerides or Our friends, the oils!

I find one of the hardest things about making lotions is choosing the right oil for the job! I’m faced with a shelf of wonderful oils filled with wonderful and amazing qualities and I can’t use them all! How to choose? Here’s a little chemistry on triglycerides as a preface to a series on oils…...

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Phase inversion

I know I recently wrote a post on this topic, but I thought I’d add a little more to it here… What is phase inversion? We know we have two phases in our lotions – the oil phase and the water phase (if you want more technical terms or to learn more about emulsification, please...

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Silicones and the HLB system

Mich brings up a very good point that I think needs addressing! Here you have the HLB requirement for dimethicone as either 9 or 10, depending on c.s. It is listed as 5 on both LabRat’s PDF and the Herbarie’s list. (Neither of those specify the c.s.)In the texts I’ve been reading, I keep seeing...

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More fun with the HLB system – a body butter recipe.

All right, so we did a kinda basic recipe yesterday, let’s look at something more complicated…a body butter filled with various oils and esters and silicones.OUR MODIFIED BODY BUTTER RECIPEWATER PHASE42% water10% aloe vera liquid10% lavender or rose hydrosol2% sodium lactate OIL PHASE10% oils – 5% macadamia nut and 5% safflower oil15% butter of choice...

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