Much maligned ingredients: Propylene glycol

In line at a shop the other day, a woman turned to me and told me that propylene glycol was in anti-freeze and ranch dressing! “I’m not eating anti-freeze,” she said. I have no idea why she told me this. It wasn’t like I was telling her about my love of cosmetic chemistry or holding...

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Hydrovance vs. urea (updated)

Jelena posted the following question: Do you know what is the difference between Hydrovance (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Urea) and Urea (INCI: Urea)? Which one is more moisturizing?   The short answer? I think the Hydrovance. Now for the long answer… Urea is a good humectant, found in the stratum corneum of our skin. It is a...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Hydrovance

Hydrovance by National Starch (INCI: hydroxyethyl urea) is a moisturizing agent that can be added to your lotions and water based products at 1 to 20%. It’s hygroscopic, meaning it draws water from the atmosphere (to your skin), so we treat it as a humectant. (In studies conducted by the company, Hydrovance absorbed 82% of...

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