Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – complicated with esters version

I know the cetearyl alcohol will keep my oils whippy, light, and not separating, so I think I’ll try a version with esters to make it feel less occlusive and less thick. I’m using my favourite ester, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, to make the product feel very light and non-greasy, and the IPM (or IPP) to increase the...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – cetearyl alcohol

So let’s try experiment number three with cetearyl alcohol. For this experiment I used 10% cetearyl alcohol and 90% shea oil from Soapcraft (the less creamy looking one). I weighed both ingredients in a Pyrex jug and heated it until the ingredients melted. I popped the container into the freezer for about 30 minutes. When...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – stearic acid

For the second experiment, I’m using 10% stearic acid and 90% rice bran oil (I’m running out of shea oil and it’s not cheap stuff!), hence the slightly yellowy cast of the picture to the left. Stearic acid is a great thickener, although it will make my creation feel more draggy than cetyl alcohol. And...

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Experimenting in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – cetyl alcohol

For the whipped shea without butter experiment, I know I need some shea oil and a thickener. Today I’m experimenting with cetyl alcohol… For my first experiment, I used 90% shea oil and 10% cetyl alcohol. I weighed both together in a Pyrex jug, then put it into the double boiler. It melted relatively quickly...

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An aside…shea oil

The other day, while standing in the workshop waiting for my conditioner to heat and hold, I thought about shea oil. I have two versions – one from Soapcraft that is a medium to heavy liquid oil and one from Voyageur that is quite a heavy liquid oil with a creamy colour – and I...

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