Visit Unicorn Chemist’s page to learn more about shea butter-coconut oil grains!

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We were discussing the other day why an anhydrous product – I think it was a lip balm? – might end up with grains, and Unicorn Chemist, an expert on anhydrous products, is sharing her knowledge and microscopic slides with us today on her page. Definitely check it as it’s incredibly interesting! Don’t forget to...

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Preservatives and inactivation: Some references, articles, and studies that might interest you!

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There was such interest in this post on inactivation of parabens by various ingredients, I wanted to share more with you about preservatives. One of the things on this blog that isn’t so obvious at times is that we need to evaluate each product to see which preservative works best with it, there’s not a...

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Q&A: Is allantoin amphoteric? What’s an isoelectric point? Can we use it in anionic products?

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Let’s continue with Mia Makes Things’ questions about using Germaben II in products and her third question about allantoin: The closest thing I’ve found is Sepimax ZEN, a gel former, which is anionic. And even then, as an anionic ingredient it prohibits the use of the cationic (at typical pH) allantoin. Which pretty much defeats my...

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Further adventures in cosmetic chemistry: What’s up coming next! 

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As I was writing up another variation of the Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion about incorporating rheology modifiers into our lotions – things like xanthan gum or gelling agents – I realized I needed to stop so I can finish the series I was sharing about some of the cosmetic chemistry terms I was...

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Q&A: Are there any non-non-ionic emulsifiers? How to use parabens in non-ionic products?

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In the December Q&A, Mia Makes Things noticed, Something I just noticed… So non-ionic solubillizers and emulsifiers can deactivate paraben-based preservatives… but I have yet to come across a solubilizer or emulsifier (O/W or W/O) that is *not* non-ionic. So how do people manage to use paraben-based preservatives, like Germaben II or Phenonip, in any product?...

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