Preservatives: Germaben II (updated with reference chart, 2024)

Germaben II is a liquid broad spectrum preservative that should be used at 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase of your watery creations (at 60˚C/140˚F). The INCI is Propylene Glycol (56%), Diazolidinyl Urea (30%), Methylparaben (11%), and Propylparaben (3%), which means it is a formaldehyde releaser that contains parabens. Read more about the...

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Emollients you will love: Jojoba esters 15 (liquid ester)

You can find jojoba esters in all viscosities with different melting points. We met jojoba esters 30 last year, a solid-at-room-temperature ingredient with a melting range of 42˚C to 51˚C (107.6˚F to 124˚F). Today, let’s meet jojoba esters 15 (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Esters), a clear, liquid, odourless, oil soluble liquid emollient you can use...

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Emollients you will love: EMOSMART L19 – hydrocarbon, emollient

EMOSMART™ L19 (INCI: C15-19 alkanes) is lovely non-polar, super light, thin, fast spreading, low viscosity (8.5 mPa.s) hydrocarbon that’s a great inclusion as a light, non-greasy emollient in any anhydrous or emulsified formula in the heated oil phase. It has a gorgeous matte finish, richer, more velvety than something of similar viscosity, like isododecane, dodecane,...

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#alltheingredients: Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum & Xanthan Gum), natural blend of gums, rheology modifier

A pile of white powder sits atop a glass plate on a black surface. This is SOLAGUM™ AX, a rheology modifier to thicken water.

We first met SOLAGUM™ AX in a shorter form in my e-book, Rheology modifiers: Hydrocolloids, issued in December 2019. You can find this e-book in the shop – Rheology modifiers: Hydrocolloids – or you would have received this as part of your $10 membership in the month of December 2019.  Let’s take a look at...

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#alltheingredients: SeaBalance 2000 – cold process, naturally compliant emulsifier – mostly written by Tanya! (Part one, sample formulas and information on the emulsifier!) 

We had a great Zoom workshop at the end of December during which Tanya mentioned she had been experimenting with SeaBalance 2000 (INCI: Sargassum Fluitans/Natans Extract, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol), a cold or hot process natural emulsifier derived from seaweed that can be used to “create fluid, low viscosity oil-in-water emulsions” that emulsifies “your favourite...

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