Emollients you will love? Illipe butter

I shared a bit about this butter a few years ago, but I’ve been playing with it a lot more lately, so I thought it was time to take a closer look at this hard, brittle butter. Illipe butter (INCI: Shorea Stenoptera (Illipe) Seed Butter) aka Borneo tallow is a hard, white to cream, brittle...

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#alltheingredients: Amine oxides – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropyl amines

I’ve been using myristamine oxide in my body washes, shampoos, cleansers, and other surfactant-y products for years, but I’ve never given it its own post. Let’s take a look at it and some related amine oxides to see why we might use them. There are three amine oxides I use – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropylamine...

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Testing lip balms & lotion bars with esters!

As part of our ester series, Emrys and I have been testing many different lip balms and lotion bars with solid esters to check their pour temperature, colour pay off, skin feel, flavour oil retention, prettiness, and more. Solid esters used in place of butters can increase colour deposition and may feel less greasy, more silky,...

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Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

A diagram of gondoic acid, also known as 11-eicosenoic acid.

Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other...

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