Emollients you will love: Sacha Inchi (Plukentia Volubilis) Seed Oil 

In the September Q&A, Charlette asked: This formulating obsession makes me less sad to see the coming end of gardening (which brings me much happiness!). I used to dread the inevitable next few months–but now don’t mind so much! My question is about a new ingredient offered by Lotioncrafters which sounds intriguing. The oil is called...

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What should I make with all this lime butter?

So, I’m a bit of an idiot. I was ordering a few things from New Directions Aromatics, and didn’t want to incur their “small order” fee ($100 is not small!) so I threw some lime butter into my basket. And when it came, it turns out I bought a kilogram of it! Thank goodness it...

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Considering the effect of different combinations of oils & butters in a basic lotion

Let’s take some time today to see how this all comes together in choosing butters and oils for our lotions! Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melt point...

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Why is the cosmetic formulator concerned with solubility, viscosity, surface tension, contact angles, wetting, refractive index, specific gravity, spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melting point?

Three bottles sit on a green tablecloth. There's a bottle of pomegranate oil on the left; babassu oil in the middle; and evening primrose oil on the right.

I thought we’d take some time to process what we’ve learned over the last few days about these very interesting concepts by considering some emollient combinations. Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play...

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Formulating tips & techniques: Substituting oils, butters, and esters for other oils, butters, and esters

In this post, Let’s formulate: Chamomile & aloe botanical summer time body butter (formula), Andrea asked: Can I leave isopropyl myristate (IPM) out (don’t have any) and add a different oil? Or just leave it out? The short answer is yes, you can substitute it. The longer answer is that unless I indicate otherwise in...

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