Emollient

Why is the cosmetic formulator concerned with solubility, viscosity, surface tension, contact angles, wetting, refractive index, specific gravity, spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melting point?

by

I thought we’d take some time to process what we’ve learned over the last few days about these very interesting concepts by considering some emollient combinations. Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play...

You are not logged in. This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only. Please login if you are a member.
Log InSubscribe

Formulating tips & techniques: Substituting oils, butters, and esters for other oils, butters, and esters

by

In this post, Let’s formulate: Chamomile & aloe botanical summer time body butter (formula), Andrea asked: Can I leave isopropyl myristate (IPM) out (don’t have any) and add a different oil? Or just leave it out? The short answer is yes, you can substitute it. The longer answer is that unless I indicate otherwise in...

You are not logged in. This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only. Please login if you are a member.
Log InSubscribe

I can’t believe it’s not butter! Hydrogenated, infused, and emulsified butters (updated December 2021)

by

As I mentioned in this post on murumuru butter, I’ve gone on a bit of a spending spree over the last 18 months for all kinds of ingredients, including some new and interesting butters. I’ve fallen in love with cupuacu butter, as well as murumuru butter and tucuma butter. I’ve also been having some fun...

You are not logged in. This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only. Please login if you are a member.
Log InSubscribe

Creating an awesome new emulsified scrub bar with my new butters!

by

Last week, I introduced you to one of my favourite new butters – tucuma butter – so I thought today  I’d share with you the awesome new emulsified scrub bar I created with it. When I make scrub bars, I tend to make the base, then add the scrubby stuff outside of the main formula...

You are not logged in. This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only. Please login if you are a member.
Log InSubscribe

Emollients you will love: Tucuma butter

by

Tucuma butter (INCI: Astrocaryum tucuma seed butter) is derived from the kernel of the fruit of the Amazon palm tree, astrocaryum tucuma. It’s a solid white to off-white butter at room temperature that melts with an average melting point of 28˚C to 38˚C or 83-97°F, which is lower than body temperature. It comes as a...

You are not logged in. This content is for $3 Level, $5 Level, and $10 Level members only. Please login if you are a member.
Log InSubscribe