Emollient

#alltheingredients: Isoamyl laurate and isoamyl cocoate – isoamyl esters, aka Naturderm IL, Gosulin IL

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We met isoamyl laurate the other day – also known as dermofeel® sensolv – so let’s meet isoamyl cocoate, then take a look at the ingredient that might be called Naturderm IL or Gosulin IL. Isoamyl laurate only consists of the C12 fatty acid, lauric acid, while isoamyl cocoate has an array of fatty acids...

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Creating a bi-phasic make-up remover with isohexadecane (formulas)

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We met the original formula for this bi-phasic make-up remover back in 2019 after I taught two versions at Voyageur Soap & Candle and Windy Point Soap Making Supplies in my classes – sigh, remember in-person classes? – but I’ve been playing with it over the last few years using some of these new esters...

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#alltheingredients: Isohexadecane – C16 hydrocarbon (light, non-greasy, silky feeling emollient)

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It really feels like it’s isomer month there on the blog! Let’s take a look at a new-to-me hydrocarbon, Isohexadecane (C16), the isomer of hexadecane! But first, if you aren’t familiar with hydrocarbons, check out these posts found in the emollients section of the blog! These are long chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms without...

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Creating formulas with isopropyl palmitate (IPP): Silky, smooth, non-greasy, emulsified lotion bar for the shower

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Over the last week, we’ve learned that the isopropyl esters are light, fast spreading, non-greasy, and silky, and they can be used with emulsified or anhydrous (without water) products. We met isopropyl myristate (IPM), then made a less greasy, lighter anhydrous whipped body butter with shea, then we met isopropyl palmitate (IPP), which you could use...

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#alltheingredients: Isopropyl stearate (IPS) – an isopropyl ester

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Isopropyl stearate (IPS) is an isopropyl ester related to isopropyl myristate (IPM), isopropyl palmitate (IPP), and isopropyl isostearate (IPIS). It’s a low viscosity, non-greasy, hydrophobic (water-hating) ester derived from stearic acid. To learn more about these isopropyl esters, check out this post on isomers and this post on comparing isopropyl esters! Click here to learn...

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