#alltheingredients: Broccoli seed oil – emollient, natural oil, silicone substitute

Broccoli seed oil (INCI: Brassica Oleracea (Broccoli) seed oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds and sprouts of broccoli plants. It has a characteristic odour, which we’ll discuss in a minute, and works to create films on hair and skin to prevent water loss and reduce frizzies. I received this oil from Formulator...

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#alltheingredients: Behenyl Behenate, simple ester – lotion & oil thickener and vegan beeswax substitute

I have been collecting so many ingredients over the last few years, and I’m slowly going through them here on the blog and in my e-books, offering profiles and formulas so you can get to know these awesome ingredients too! Today’s ingredient is part of the solid ester series we finished a while ago! Quick...

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#alltheingredients: Isoeicosane – C20 hydrocarbon (light, non-greasy, satiny feeling emollient)

Let’s finish off what’s accidentally became isomer month by meeting icoeicosane, a non-volatile hydrocarbon related to dodecane, isododecane, Neossance® Hemisqualane, squalane, icohexadecane, and the others. (It was supposed to be shared last month, but I just realized the scheduled post didn’t post! Eek!) But first, if you aren’t familiar with hydrocarbons, check out these posts...

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#alltheingredients: Isoamyl laurate and isoamyl cocoate – isoamyl esters, aka Naturderm IL, Gosulin IL

We met isoamyl laurate the other day – also known as dermofeel® sensolv – so let’s meet isoamyl cocoate, then take a look at the ingredient that might be called Naturderm IL or Gosulin IL. Isoamyl laurate only consists of the C12 fatty acid, lauric acid, while isoamyl cocoate has an array of fatty acids...

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Creating a bi-phasic make-up remover with isohexadecane (formulas)

We met the original formula for this bi-phasic make-up remover back in 2019 after I taught two versions at Voyageur Soap & Candle and Windy Point Soap Making Supplies in my classes – sigh, remember in-person classes? – but I’ve been playing with it over the last few years using some of these new esters...

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