#alltheingredients: Sepigel 305™ (INCI: Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) – cold process liquid emulsifier

Sepigel 305™ (aka Cosmagel 305, CC Sepgel 305) is a translucent to opaque, white-ish, pre-neutralized, non-ionic liquid that works as an oil-in-water emulsifier at 2% to 5% or a thickener for aqueous products at as low as 0.1%. It creates what are called cream-gels, which is one that has a gelling agent along with an...

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Q&A: Why aren’t we concerned with pH for lotions, conditioners, or body butters?

In the monthly Q&A post, Chavi asked, This may be a silly question but it occurred to me while I was reading the new ebook.. why aren’t we concerned with pH when it comes to lotions,  conditioners, body butters, etc? I’m sure the answer is in my head somewhere but at nearly midnight, it’s not coming...

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Q&A: How can I make this cream formula less soapy?

In this month’s Q&A, Flore asked, Hello Susan, I’ve formulated a simple body cream recipe that includes 8% BTMS-50, 4% Cetyl Alcohol, 27% soft oils, 53% distilled water, 5% glycerin, 1% optiphen. What would be your advice on decreasing the soaping effect without adding silicones? This recipe takes a long time to rub in and feels tacky...

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What’s the deal with the “soaping effect” or those white streaks from emulsions?

A man's hand has a lotion spread on it. it's white, so it look like soap, which is why this is called the soaping effect

Rather than break this into a number of posts over the course of a few days, I decided to leave this as one giant post for easier reference. Honestly, I didn’t expect this to reach over 3,000 words, but here we are!  What causes the “soaping effect” or “an undesired foaming phenomenon observed in skin creams...

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Q&A: Liquid crystal emulsifiers? Is there a list of them? How to create a successful Olivem 1000 emulsion?

In this month’s Q&A, Kristina asked, Happy June Susan! I’m have a quick question (I hope!) at one point I was using liquid crystal emulsifiers, now it’s hard to get a list of them – Olivem 1000, and Montano 68 (which has been sold out) are the only ones I can find when I search...

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