active ingredients

#alltheingredients: NatraPep® Pea (INCI: Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract)

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A bottle of NaturePep® Pea sits on a wooden shelf with beakers behind it. A small shot glass contains a clear, light brown liquid, which is the protein

I was sent this gorgeous new ingredient from Voyageur Soap & Candle, NaturePep® Pea (INCI: Pisum Sativum (Pea) extract). It’s a clear, brown liquid with 12% to 17% concentration of pisum sativum extract that we use at 1% to 5% in the cool down phase of our water only or emulsified products 40˚C (104˚F) or...

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Q&A: Questions about Azelaic Acid?

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In the December Q&A, Kristina asked, Hi Susan!! I have a question about azelaic acid. In your blog post #alltheingredients: Azelaic Acid, you note that it is recommended that it be added to the cool down phase below 40˚C, but earlier in the post you note that Corum states that it has a melting point...

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#alltheingredients: Hyalurosomes (INCI: Polydimethylsiloxane/Polymethylsilsesquioxane Copolymer & Phospholipids & Hyaluronic Acid) – active ingredient, Hyaluronic Acid

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Quick note before we begin*: Maggie from Formulator Sample Shop just let me know that they have a deal on this ingredient, FSS Hyalurosome (INCI: Polydimethylsiloxane/Polymethylsilsesquioxane Copolymer & Phospholipids & Hyaluronic Acid), Hyaluronic Acid that’s released over time in our products. It’s normally as high as $167 a kilogram, but they’ve reduced it to $67 a...

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#alltheingredients: NaturePep® Sacha Inchi (INCI: Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract) – facial care active

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As I’ve been reviewing all the various formulas and ingredients I’ve played with over the last four years – wow, since 2017??? – I’ve been finding ones I haven’t shared with you yet. Let’s take a look at this lovely water soluble ingredient that claims it can reduce the look of our wrinkles, reduce roughness...

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Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Vitamin C, 3-glyceryl ascorbate

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This post and formula is kinda an extension of last week’s Formulating Friday in which we made a facial moisturizer with the emulsifier Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 as we’re modifying those formulas, but you don’t have to be following the series to make these. If you’d like to learn more about each ingredient and why we’re using them...

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