all the ingredients

#alltheingredients: Genugel® G-130 – kappa-carrageenan (natural rheology modifier)

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As a note, there are a few different kinds of carrageenans we can buy, the most common being iota-carrageenan or kappa-carageenan. I’ll be writing about both. If you’ve ever made jelly soap, you’ve probably used iota-karageenan, which creates soft, wiggly, elastic gels.  Genugel® G-130 carrageenan (kappa) is an anionic or negatively charged water dispersible thickener derived from...

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Emollients you will love? Illipe butter

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I shared a bit about this butter a few years ago, but I’ve been playing with it a lot more lately, so I thought it was time to take a closer look at this hard, brittle butter. Illipe butter (INCI: Shorea Stenoptera (Illipe) Seed Butter) aka Borneo tallow is a hard, white to cream, brittle...

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#alltheingredients: Amine oxides – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropyl amines

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I’ve been using myristamine oxide in my body washes, shampoos, cleansers, and other surfactant-y products for years, but I’ve never given it its own post. Let’s take a look at it and some related amine oxides to see why we might use them. There are three amine oxides I use – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropylamine...

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How do I learn about ingredients? Creating a conditioner for textured or curly hair using STEPANQUAT® Helia (part seven)

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Welcome back to this series demonstrating how to use new ingredients and create new formulas! To catch-up on this series, check out these posts: Part one: How do I research ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (INCI:  Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)?  Part two: Creating the ingredient reference chart? Part three: Finding starting...

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#alltheingredients: Glyceryl caprylate/caprate (GCC) – a glyceryl ester

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We’re working through the ingredients we need to make this conditioner – Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair. We evaluated the formula in this post – How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part six) – reviewing the formula from Stepan’s multicultural series – and found their were four...

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