all the ingredients

#alltheingredients: Amine oxides – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropyl amines

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I’ve been using myristamine oxide in my body washes, shampoos, cleansers, and other surfactant-y products for years, but I’ve never given it its own post. Let’s take a look at it and some related amine oxides to see why we might use them. There are three amine oxides I use – lauramine, myristamine, and cocamidopropylamine...

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How do I learn about ingredients? Creating a conditioner for textured or curly hair using STEPANQUAT® Helia (part seven)

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Welcome back to this series demonstrating how to use new ingredients and create new formulas! To catch-up on this series, check out these posts: Part one: How do I research ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (INCI:  Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)?  Part two: Creating the ingredient reference chart? Part three: Finding starting...

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#alltheingredients: Glyceryl caprylate/caprate (GCC) – a glyceryl ester

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We’re working through the ingredients we need to make this conditioner – Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair. We evaluated the formula in this post – How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part six) – reviewing the formula from Stepan’s multicultural series – and found their were four...

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Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

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Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

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Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other...

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