all the ingredients

#alltheingredients: Glyceryl caprylate/caprate (GCC) – a glyceryl ester

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We’re working through the ingredients we need to make this conditioner – Formulas from Stepan: Links to the Multicultural Collection for textured or curly hair. We evaluated the formula in this post – How do I learn about new ingredients? STEPANQUAT® Helia (part six) – reviewing the formula from Stepan’s multicultural series – and found their were four...

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Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

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Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

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Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other...

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#alltheingredients: Arachidic fatty acid (eicosenoic acid)

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Arachidic fatty acid is a saturated, straight chain fatty acid with 20 carbon atoms in the chain. It has a melting point of 75˚C (167˚F), and a boiling point of 328˚C, so it can handle being heated and held. It’s found in a number of our favourite oils and butters – cupuacu butter, illipe butter,...

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#alltheingredients: Behenic fatty acid (docosanoic acid)

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Behenic acid is a straight chain (C22 or 22 carbon), saturated fatty acid found in some of our oils, like moringa and pracaxi, and in small amounts in peanuts. It has a melting point of 80˚C (176˚F), and a boiling point of 306˚C, so it tolerates the heat at which we create our products pretty...

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