#alltheingredients: Hydroxypropyl guar (rheology modifier)

I have a really interesting question from this month’s Q&A that I want to answer, but first we need to take a look at hydroxypropyl guar. I have this ingredient as Jaguar® HP-105 from Solvay but you can also find it as Polycos, so some of this might be specific to one version or another. Hydroxypropyl...

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#alltheingredients: Foaming apple surfactant (sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) – surfactant

Foaming apple surfactant (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids) is a foamy, bubbly, lathery surfactant derived from – wait for it… – apples! It’s a very mild surfactant with a neutral pH, great for all skin types, but especially sensitive or dry types. Because it has a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, it works well...

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Esters: Cetyl ricinoleate – simple ester

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl ricinoleate is derived from ricinoleic acid from castor oil, so it’s a palm-free...

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#alltheingredients: Cream of tartar (INCI: potassium bitartrate)

I’m shocked I’ve never written about this ingredient before, so let’s rectify that mistake, eh? Cream of tartar is an an acidic ingredient also known as potassium bitartrate or potassium hydrogen tartrate* derived from wine making, and used a few different ways in cooking and creating bath and body products. We use it as a...

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Esters: Cetyl palmitate, simple ester

Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl Palmitate is a simple ester, a white, waxy flake used as a...

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