all the ingredients

#alltheingredients: Cream of tartar (INCI: potassium bitartrate)

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I’m shocked I’ve never written about this ingredient before, so let’s rectify that mistake, eh? Cream of tartar is an an acidic ingredient also known as potassium bitartrate or potassium hydrogen tartrate* derived from wine making, and used a few different ways in cooking and creating bath and body products. We use it as a...

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Esters: Cetyl palmitate, simple ester

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Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl Palmitate is a simple ester, a white, waxy flake used as a...

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#alltheingredients: Azelaic Acid

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In the October Q&A post, Chelsea asked, Hey swift – I am super interested in azelaic acid and some in general information about it. I made sure to to check via the search first and didn’t produce results; though I hope I didnt accidentally miss this ingredient info on the blog. Thank you much for...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ SC (cationic emulsifier, skin care)

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AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) is a close cousin to AminoSensyl™ HC, but it has the added Brassica Glycerides to thicken the product. This one is designed for higher oil loads than its cousin – up to 40% oil phase! Wow! They note this emulsifier creates rich textures,...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ HC (cationic emulsifier)

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AminoSensyl™ HC (INCI: Brassica alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate) is a brand new positively charged or cationic emulsifier suitable for use in lotions and conditioners. It’s an amino-acid based conditioner not based on quats that promises to condition, smooth, and strengthen hair. It’s 100% naturally compliant, and doesn’t require neutralization to increase or decrease the...

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