Cosmeceutical

#alltheingredients: Fision® Instant Lift (INCI: Water, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum) – active, cosmeceutical for making skin feel “lifted”

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If you’ve seen ads for products that promise to firm and lift your skin instantly when you use them, they’re probably using this ingredient or Pepha-Tight®️ CB. As it dries, it creates it creates a film that tightens to make skin appear smoother. The hydrolyzed soy protein hydrates skin by forming a film, too. Because...

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Substantiating claims: How much improvement can be expected from actives?

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In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, I have a number of age / liver spots on my hands and face, as I was part of the “let’s use baby oil to get a suntan” generation. I am hoping that you could tell me the best actives to tone these little beauties down. I am specifically...

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Substantiating claims: What does it mean to “brighten skin” or “reduce the appearance” of something? Looking at parameters, measuring, and testing (long post)

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Oh wow, did I go down the rabbit hole for a question posed by Susan on the monthly Q&A quite a few months back. As with many of the awesome questions you ask there, this one took a while because it’s become a series that might end up being an e-book as well. Thank you for...

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Ceramides in our skin and our products – including Ceramide Complex (updated October 28, 2022)

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Way way back a while, Sarah and a few others asked about using ceramides in one of the Q&A posts. I’m sorry it’s taken so long, but there were so many things I needed to write about before we reached this point, and this potential duplication gave me a perfect opportunity to share this!  If...

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Q&A: How do I use n-acetyl glucosamine in heated emulsions?

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In this month’s Q&A, Susan asked, Happy day to you! I’m hoping you could tell me how to add n-acetyl glucosamine to heated emulsion face lotions. All I’ve found is that it should be dissolved in water and added to a formulation below 50˚C. Since we’re heating to 70˚C to make the emulsion this would bring...

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